HYACINTH

One of the most valuable characteristics of the Hyacinth is the ease

with which it can be flowered in a variety of ways by very simple modes

of treatment. It may be employed as a hardy, rough-weather plant for the

garden border, or as a grand exhibition and conservatory flower. The

bulbs may be planted at any time from September to the middle of

December, with the certainty of their blooming well, if properly cared

for; but the prudent cultivator will plant them as early as possible in

the autumn, and so manage them afterwards as to secure the longest

period of growth previous to their flowering. They can be forced to

flower at Christmas, but the more slowly the flowers are developed the

finer in the end will they be. To obtain good bulbs is a matter of the

utmost importance, and it may be useful here to remark that the mere

size of a Hyacinth bulb is no criterion of its value--nor, indeed, is

its neatness of form or brightness of appearance. The two most important

qualities are soundness and density. If the bulbs are hard and heavy in

proportion to their size, they may be depended on to produce good

flowers of their kind. The bulbs of some sorts are never large or

handsome, while, on the other hand, many others partake of both these

qualities in a marked degree.



One other matter in general relating to the treatment of Hyacinths needs

to be referred to. Harm has often been done by the practice of massing

the flowers, whether in pot groups or in garden beds, without

consideration of colour harmonies. Yet no other bulbous flower offers

such a wide choice of delightful colours, or is so eminently adapted to

artistic blending, as the Hyacinth. By eschewing the dull blues and

allied shades and by bringing into association exquisite tones of mauve,

pink, apricot, salmon, pale yellow, rich lilac, bright red, &c., it is

easy to demonstrate that there are possibilities in Hyacinths which may

never have been suspected before. The following are a few of the

charming blends which may be made, and will especially appeal to those

who grow Hyacinths indoors: (i) Apricot, cream, and pale blue; (2)

cream, pale pink, and rose-pink; (3) bright pink and pale blue; (4)

bright red, rich blue, and pure white; (5) rose-pink and rich blue; (6)

pale yellow and rich blue; (7) deep mauve and pale mauve; (8) cream and

pale blue; (9) bright blue shades (dull, washy, and nondescript blue,

purple, and violet tints must be avoided); (10) blush pink and

rose-pink; (11) apricot and cream; (12) pale lavender, cream, and

apricot. These examples will show that charming effects can be secured

either with two or with three varieties. Colour-grouping may also be

carried out in the garden, but in this case great care must be exercised

to get varieties of clear, bright hues which flower at the same time,

such as Inimitable Bedding Hyacinths. Modern taste further dictates that

the bare soil shall be hidden, and this end is best served by providing

a groundwork of dwarf plants, such as Daisies, Forget-me-nots, double

white Arabis, and mauve Aubrietia. Another course is to mix Hyacinths

with Daffodils of the Chalice or Star section; there is no better

variety than Sir Watkin, but others may be used.



Culture in Pots.--It is not necessary to use large pots, or pots of a

peculiar shape, for Hyacinths. There is nothing better than common

flower-pots, and in those of 60-size single bulbs may be flowered in a

most satisfactory manner. The pots usually employed are the 48-and

32-sizes, the last-named being required only for selected bulbs grown

for exhibition. We advise the use of small pots where Hyacinths are

grown in pits and frames for decorative purposes, because they can be

conveniently placed in ornamental stands, or packed close together in

baskets of moss, when required for the embellishment of the

drawing-room. As the use of new pots for Hyacinths is often the cause of

failure, they should not be employed if well-cleansed old pots are

available. The tender roots of the bulbs frequently become too dry owing

to the absorbent nature of the new pots. A rich, light soil is

indispensable, and it should consist chiefly of turfy loam, with

leaf-mould and a liberal allowance of sharp sand. The mixture ought to

be in a moderately moist condition when ready for use. In small pots one

hollow crock must suffice, but the 48-and 32-sized pots can be prepared

in the usual way, with one large hollow crock, and a little heap of

smaller potsherds or nodules of charcoal over it. Fill the pots quite

full of soil, and then press the bulb into it, and press the soil round

the bulb to finish the operation. If potted loosely, they will not

thrive; if potted too firmly, they will rise up as soon as the roots

begin to grow, and be one-sided. In large pots the bulbs should be

nearly covered with soil, but in small pots they must be only half

covered, in order to afford them the largest possible amount of

root-room. When potted, a cool place must be found for them, and unless

they go absolutely dry, they should not have a drop of water until they

begin to grow freely and are in the enjoyment of full daylight. The pots

may be stored in a dark, cool pit, or any out-of-the-way place where

neither sun, nor frost, nor heavy rains will affect them; but it is

advisable to plunge them in coal-ashes and also to cover them with a few

inches of the ashes. As to their removal, they must be taken out as

wanted for forcing, and certainly before they push up their flower

spikes, as they will do if they remain too long in the bed. The

cultivator will be guided in respect of their removal from the bed by

circumstances; but when they are removed, a distinct routine of

treatment must be observed, or the flowering will be unsatisfactory. For

a short time they should be placed in subdued daylight, that the

blanched growth may acquire a healthy green hue slowly; and they need to

be kept cool in order that they shall grow very little until a healthy

colour is acquired. The floor of a cool greenhouse is a good place for

them when first taken out of the bed and cleaned up for forcing. Another

matter of great importance is to place them near the glass immediately

their green colour is established, and to grow them as slowly as the

requirements of the case will permit. If to be forced early, allow

plenty of time to train them to bear a great heat, taking from bed to

pit, and from pit to cool house, and deferring to the latest possible

moment placing them in the heat in which they are to flower. Those to

bloom at Christmas should be potted in September, those to follow may be

potted a month later. If a long succession is required, a sufficient

number should be potted every two or three weeks to the end of the year.

Those potted latest will, of course, flower in frames without the aid of

heat. In any and every case the highest temperature of the forcing-pit

should be 70 deg.; to go beyond that point will cause an attenuated growth

and poverty of colour. If liquid manure is employed at all, it should be

used constantly and extremely weak until the flowers begin to expand,

and then pure soft water only should be used. No matter what may be the

particular constitution of the liquid manure, it must be weak, or it

will do more harm than good. The spikes should be supported by wires or

neat sticks in ample time, and a constant watch kept to see that the

stems are not cut or bent, as they rapidly develop beyond the range

allowed them by their supports.



Culture in Glasses.--It is of little consequence whether rain, river,

or spring water be employed in this mode of culture, but it must be

pure, and in the glasses it should nearly but not quite touch the bulbs.

Store at once in a dark, cool place, to encourage the bulbs to send

their roots down into the water before the leaves begin to grow. When

the roots are developed, bring the glasses from the dark to the light,

in order that leaves and flowers may be in perfect health. Let them have

as much light as possible, with an equable temperature, and provide

supports in good time. Hyacinths are often injured by being kept in

rooms that are at times extremely cold and at others heated to excess.

Those who wish to grow the bulbs to perfection in glasses should remove

them occasionally as circumstances may require, to prevent the injury

that must otherwise result from rapid and extreme alternations of

temperature. It is not desirable to introduce to the water any

stimulating substance, but the glasses must be kept nearly full of water

by replenishing as it disappears. If the leaves become dusty, they may

be cleansed with a soft brush or a sponge dipped in water, but

particular care must be taken not to injure them in the process.



Culture in Moss-fibre.--While Hyacinths, differing from Daffodils and

Tulips, are perhaps relatively better in pots of soil than in bowls of

moss-fibre, they may still be grown successfully in bowls provided a

fairly deep receptacle is chosen and care is taken to avoid making the

fibre hard. With a shallow bowl and very firm fibre it may be found that

the roots strike upward and the plant does not get that abundant supply

of moisture which is essential to its welfare. For this method of

culture preference should be given to the Roman, Giant Italian,

Christmas Pink, Miniature and Grape Hyacinths, which look particularly

charming in bowls and similar contrivances. Detailed directions are

given on page 319.



Culture in Beds.--The Hyacinth will grow well in any ordinary garden

soil, but that which suits it best is a light rich loam. The bed should

be effectually drained, for though the plant loves moisture it cannot

thrive in a bog during the winter. It is advisable to plant early, and

to plant deep. If a rich effect is required, especially in beds near the

windows of a residence, the bulbs should be six inches apart, but at a

greater distance a good effect may be produced by planting nine inches

apart. The time of blooming may be to some extent influenced by the time

and manner of planting, but no strict rules can be given to suit

particular instances. Late planting and deep planting both tend to defer

the time of blooming, although there will not be a great difference in

any case, and as a rule the late bloom is to be preferred, because less

liable to injury from frost. The shallowest planting should insure a

depth of three inches of earth above the crown of the bulb, but they

will flower better, and only a few days later, if covered with full six

inches of earth over the crowns. The Hyacinth is so hardy that

protection need not be thought of, except in peculiar cases of unusual

exposure, or on the occurrence of an excessively low temperature when

they are growing freely. Under any circumstances, there is no protection

so effectual as dry litter, but a thin coat of half-rotten manure spread

over the bed is to be preferred in the event of danger being apprehended

at any time before the growth has fairly pushed through.



The bulbs may be taken up as soon as the leaves acquire a yellow colour,

so that the brilliant display of spring may be immediately followed by

another, equally brilliant perhaps, but in character altogether

different. When grown in beds, Hyacinths do not require water or sticks;

all they need is to be planted properly, and they will take care of

themselves.



Miniature Hyacinths.--These charming little sparkling gems are

invaluable for baskets, bowls and other contrivances which are adapted

for the choicest decorative purposes. In quality they are excellent, the

spikes being symmetrical, the flowers well formed, and the colours

brilliant. But they are true miniatures, growing about half the size of

the other kinds, and requiring less soil to root in. They will flower

well if planted in a mixture of moss-fibre and charcoal, kept constantly

moist, and covered with the greenest moss, to give to the ornament

containing them a finished appearance.



Feather and Grape Hyacinths will grow in any good garden soil, and are

admirably adapted for borders that are shaded by trees. They should be

planted in large clumps, and be allowed to remain several years

undisturbed. Both classes are beautiful--the Feather Hyacinth

emphatically so; indeed, numerous as beautiful flowers are, this, for

delicacy of structure, has peculiar claims to our admiration, when

presenting its feathery plumes a foot or more in length, all cut into

curling threads of the most elegant tenuity. Grape Hyacinths make a

charming ornament for the drawing-room when grown in bowls of

moss-fibre.



Roman Hyacinth.--This flower is particularly welcome in the short,

dark days of November, December, and January. For placing in glasses to

decorate the drawing-room or dinner-table the spikes of bloom are

largely grown; and the separate flowers, mounted on wire, form an

important feature in winter bouquets, for which purpose their delicious

perfume renders them especially valuable.



The bulbs can be grown with the utmost ease. Pot them immediately they

can be obtained in August or September, and stand them in some spare

corner in the open ground, where they can be covered with a few inches

of leaf-mould. This will encourage the roots to start before there is

any top growth. In October remove the covering, and transfer the pots to

a pit or frame, or they may be placed under the greenhouse stage for a

time, provided they will not be in the way of dripping water. A little

later, room should be found for them upon the stage, or the foliage may

become drawn. When the buds are visible, plunge the pots in a bottom

heat of 65 deg. or 70 deg., and in a week the flowers will be fit for use. Like

its more imposing prototype, the Roman Hyacinth may have its roots

gently freed from soil for packing in bowls or vases filled with wet

moss or sand; but they ought not to be subjected to a violent change of

temperature. If wanted in glasses, they can be grown in water after the

usual fashion, but the flower is scarcely adapted for this mode of

treatment. They will, however, grow well in bowls filled with

moss-fibre.



Italian Hyacinth.--Although rather later in flowering than the Roman

variety, the Italian Hyacinth deserves to be grown as a pot plant,

especially for its more lasting quality. The graceful flowers are

carried on long stout stems which are most effective for the decoration

of vases. The bulbs are perfectly hardy, and may be planted in clumps in

the open border, where they will bloom in April and afford abundant

sprays for cutting. The habit is less formal than that of the Dutch

Hyacinth and the flowers exhale a sweet delicate perfume. As previously

stated, the Italian Hyacinth is especially suitable for growing in

moss-fibre.