FEBRUARY

A Considerable number of important flowers should be sown during this

month. The precise dates depend on the district, the character of the

season, and the resources of the cultivator. Should the month open with

frost, or with rough, wet weather, it will be wise to exercise a little

patience. Where there are insufficient means for battling with sudden

variations of temperature, choose the end rather than the beginning of

the month for starting tender subjects. Govern the work by intelligent

observation, instead of following hard and fast rules. But in no case

should fear of the weather form an excuse for the postponement of

necessary work.



Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.--It is one of the merits of hardy

annuals and biennials sown in late summer for blooming in the following

spring that they need very little attention. Still, they ought not to be

entirely neglected. They should be kept scrupulously free from weeds,

and it may be evident that a mulch of decayed manure is necessary to

protect and strengthen them for a rich display of colour in the spring.

Such varieties as have to be transplanted should be watched, and the

first suitable opportunity seized for transferring them to flowering

positions.



Abutilon is a flowering greenhouse shrub which answers well under the

treatment of an annual. It does not need a forcing temperature at any

stage, nor is the plant fastidious as to soil. The seed, which is both

slow and irregular in germinating, may be sown in pots. As the young

plants become ready they should be pricked off and kept steadily

growing. When leaves drop, it indicates mismanagement, perhaps

starvation. A well-grown specimen, when the buds show, will be two feet

high, and bear examination all round.



Anemone.--Against the practice of planting roots of this elegant

flower we have not a word to say. On the contrary, there is much to be

advanced in its favour. Arrangements of colour can be secured which are

impossible of attainment from seedlings. Still, there can be no doubt

that the supposed necessity of depending alone on bulbs has proved a

barrier to the growth of Anemones in many gardens, and on a large scale.

The culture from seed is of the simplest character, no appliances

whatever beyond those at the command of the cottager being needed. The

prime requisite is a rich moist soil. Where this does not exist

naturally, a liberal dressing of mellow cow-manure, and, in dry weather,

a diligent employment of the water-can, will render it possible to grow

superb flowers of brilliant colour. The best way of making the seed-bed

is to open a trench, putting a layer of decayed manure at the bottom,

and mingling a further quantity with the soil when it is returned. The

addition of some light compost or sand to the surface may or may not be

necessary to prepare it for the seed. We prefer sowing in rows and

lightly scratching the seed in. Some growers only sift a little sand

over, and the practice answers well. Weeds must be removed with care

until the seedlings appear, and these are a long time in coming.

Thinning to six inches apart, and keeping the bed clean and moist,

constitute the whole remainder of the work of growing Anemones.



Aquilegia sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may

flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; but they

will certainly pay for this early sowing in the succeeding spring. The

plant is quite hardy, therefore seed may be sown later on in the open

for a display in the following year.



Asparagus (Greenhouse foliage varieties).--The finely feathered

sprays of A. plumosus have become indispensable for bouquets,

buttonholes, and general decorative purposes. A. decumbens and A.

Sprengeri are most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of the

three varieties should be sown in heat in either February or March.



Auricula.--The Show Auricula is one of the reigning beauties of the

floral world, and, like the Rose, has its own special exhibitions.

Although the flower merits all the admiration it receives, yet it must

be confessed that some amateurs indulge in a great deal of needless

coddling in the work of raising it. One quality there must be in the

grower, and that is patience; for seed saved from a single plant in any

given season, and sown at one time, will germinate in the most irregular

manner. Months may elapse between the appearance of the first and the

last plant. The lesson to sow thinly is obvious, so that the seedlings

may be lifted as they become ready, without disturbing the surrounding

soil. Both the Show and the Alpine varieties should be sown in pans

filled with a mixture of sweet sandy loam and leaf-mould. They may be

started in gentle heat, but this is quite optional. The Auricula is

thoroughly hardy against cold, and glass is only employed as a

protection against wind, heavy rain, and atmospheric deposits.



Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.--Seed may still be sown for a summer

display. Transplant seedlings which are ready, and later on pot them

singly.



Calceolaria, Shrubby.--Seeds sown in pans placed in a frame or a

greenhouse of moderate temperature will insure plants for outdoor summer

decoration. Transfer the seedlings to pots quite early.



Campanula.--By sowing seed in gentle heat during February many of the

Campanulas will flower the same season. These hardy plants require but

little heat, and they should be given as much light and air as possible.

They may be grown on in pots for the decoration of rooms or the

conservatory, or planted out on good ground in the open border. The

half-hardy trailing variety, C. fragilis, is specially adapted for

suspended baskets or large vases. Seed is generally sown in February or

March; when ready the seedlings are transferred to pots.



Celosia plumosa.--Seed may be sown either now or in March, and the

routine recommended for Cockscombs will develop splendid plumes. Re-pot

in good time to prevent the roots from growing through the bottoms of

the pots.



Cockscomb.--The ideal Cockscomb is a dwarf, well-furnished plant, with

large, symmetrical, and intensely coloured combs. Seed of a first-class

strain will produce a fair proportion of such plants in the hands of a

man who understands their treatment. Sow in seed-pans filled with rich,

sweet, friable loam, and place in a brisk temperature. Transfer the

seedlings very early to small pots, and shift on until the size is

reached in which they are to flower. Directly they become root-bound the

combs will be formed.



Cosmea.--To prevent the disappointment which is sometimes experienced

by growers of this attractive half-hardy annual, it is essential to sow

a reliable early-flowering strain. Start the seed on a gentle hot-bed in

February and plant out the seedlings in May or June when the danger from

frost is past.



Dahlia.--Both the double and single classes can be grown and flowered

from seed as half-hardy annuals. A sowing in this month will supply

plants sufficiently forward to bloom at the usual time. Some growers

begin in January, and provided they have room and the work can be

followed up without risking a check at any stage, no objection can be

raised to the practice. For most gardens, however, February is safer,

and March will not be too late. Sow thinly in pots or pans filled with

light rich soil, and finish with a very thin covering of fine

leaf-mould. When the seedlings are about an inch high, pot them

separately, taking special care of the weakly specimens, for these in

point of colour may prove to be the gems of the collection. After

transplanting, a little extra attention will help them to a fresh start.



Dianthus.--From sowings made this month or in January, all the

varieties may be raised in about 55 deg. or 60 deg. of heat, but immediately the

seed has germinated it is important to put the pots in a lower

temperature, or the seedlings will become soft. They should also be

transferred to seed-pans when large enough to handle.



Fuchsia.--It is now widely known that Fuchsias can be satisfactorily

flowered from seed in six or seven months, and from a good strain there

will be seedlings well worth growing. Sow thinly on a rich firm soil,

and give the pots a temperature of about 70 deg.. While quite small transfer

the plants to the edges of well-drained pots, and later on pot them

singly into a compost consisting chiefly of leaf-mould until the

flowering size is reached, when a proportion of decayed cow-manure

should be added. The Fuchsia is a gross feeder, and must have abundance

of food and water. Aphis and thrips are persistent enemies of this

plant, and will need constant attention.



Geranium seed may be sown at any time of the year, but there are good

reasons why the months of February and August should be chosen.

Seedlings raised now will make fine plants by the end of June, and begin

to flower in August. They are robust in habit, and from a reliable

strain there will be a considerable proportion of handsome specimens.

Sow in pans filled with soil somewhat rough in texture, and the surface

need not be very smooth. Lightly cover the seed with fine loam. To have

plants ready for flowering in the summer it will be necessary to give

the seed-pans a temperature of 60 deg. or 70 deg., and follow the usual practice

of pricking off and potting the seedlings.



Gladiolus.--It is not common to grow this noble flower from seed, but

the task is simple, and seed good enough to be worth the experiment is

obtainable. In large pots, well drained and filled with fibrous loam and

leaf-mould, dibble the seeds separately an inch apart and half an inch

deep. A temperature of 65 deg. or 70 deg. will bring them up, and when they

reach an inch high the heat should be gradually reduced. The seedlings

need not be transplanted, but may remain in the same pots until the

grass dies down, and the corms are sifted out in September or October.



Gloxinia.--The directions under January are applicable, but it will be

necessary to provide shade for the seedlings as the sun becomes hot,

especially after they have been re-potted.



Kochia trichophylla.--A beautiful half-hardy ornamental annual shrub,

symmetrical in form. From seed sown during this month or in March plants

can easily be raised for indoor decoration or to furnish a supply for

beds and borders. When well grown and allowed plenty of space from the

beginning, each specimen forms a dense mass of bright green foliage

which changes to russet-crimson in autumn.



Lobelias occupy a foremost place for bedding, and are sufficiently

diversified to meet many requirements. Indeed, there is no other blue

flower which can challenge its position. The compact class is specially

adapted for edgings; the spreading varieties answer admirably in borders

where a sharply defined line of colour is not essential; the gracilis

strain has a charming effect in suspended baskets, window-boxes, and

rustic work; and the ramosa section grows from nine to twelve inches

high, producing large flowers. All these may be sown now as annuals, to

produce plants for bedding out in May. Put the seed into sandy soil, and

start the pans in a gentle heat.



Mimulus, if sown now and treated as a greenhouse annual, will flower

in the first year. It is one of the thirstiest plants grown in this

country, and must have unstinted supplies of water.



Nicotiana.--Where sub-tropical gardening is practised the Tobacco

plant is indispensable. To develop its fine proportions there must be

the utmost liberality of treatment from the commencement. Either in this

month or early in March sow in rich soil, and place the pans in a warm

house or pit. Put the seedlings early into small pots, and promote a

rapid but sturdy growth, until the weather is warm enough for them in

the open ground. The Nicotiana also makes an admirable pot plant for the

conservatory or greenhouse, where it is especially valued for its

delightful fragrance.



Pansy.--Although the Pansy will grow almost anywhere, a moist, rich

soil, partially shaded from summer sun, is necessary to do the plant

full justice. Many distinct colours are saved separately, and the

quality of the seedlings is so good that propagation by cuttings is

gradually declining. Sow thinly in pots or pans, and when the young

plants have been pricked off, put them in a cool, safe corner until

large enough for bedding out. The soil should be plentifully dressed

with decayed cow-manure.



Pelargonium.--In raising seedling Pelargoniums, it is well to bear in

mind that worthless seed takes just as much time and attention as does a

first-class strain. The simplest greenhouse culture will suffice to

bring the plants to perfection. A light sandy loam suits them, and the

pots need not go beyond the 48-or at most the 32-size. Flowering will be

deferred until re-potting ceases.



Petunia.--Towards the end of the month the seedlings raised in January

for pot culture will be ready for transferring to seed-pans. It will

also be time to sow for bedding plants, although the beginning of March

is not too late.



Phlox Drummondii.--The attention devoted to this flower has made it

one of the most varied and brilliant half-hardy annuals we possess. The

grandiflora section includes numerous splendid bedding subjects which

flower freely, and continue in bloom for a long period. These and others

are also valuable as pot plants, and even in the greenhouse or

conservatory they are conspicuous for their rich colours. All the

varieties may be sown now in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Press

the seeds into good soil about an inch apart, and as a rule this will

save transplanting; but if transplanting becomes necessary, take out

alternate plants and put into other pans, or pot them separately. The

remainder will then have room to grow until the time arrives for bedding

out.



Polyanthus.--Either now or in March sow in pans filled with any fairly

good potting soil, and do not be impatient about the germination of the

seed. Many sowings of good seed have been thrown away because it was not

known that the Polyanthus partakes of the slow and irregular

characteristics of this class of plants. As the seedlings become ready,

lift them carefully and transplant into pans or boxes, from which a

little later they may be moved to any secluded corner of the border,

until in September they are put into flowering quarters. While in the

seed-pans they must be kept moist, although excessive watering is to be

avoided. Should the summer prove dry, they will also need water when in

the open ground.



Primroses of good colours are admirably adapted for indoor decoration,

and there is no occasion to grow them in pots for the purpose. Lift the

required number from the reserve border without exposing the roots; pot

them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no

more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation,

comprise all the needful details of cultivation. Seed sown in this month

or in March, in pans or boxes, will produce fine plants for flowering in

the succeeding year.



Primula.--The elegant half-hardy varieties P. obconica grandiflora

and P. malacoides may be sown any time from February to July, the

earliest of which will commence flowering in the succeeding autumn and

winter. The aim should be to keep the plants as hardy as possible,

giving them air whenever conditions are favourable.



Ranunculus.--Although it is not usual to grow this flower from seed,

it is both easy and interesting to do so. Sow in boxes containing from

four to six inches of soil, and as there need be no transplanting, each

seed should be put in separately, about an inch and a half apart. A cool

greenhouse or frame will supply the requisite conditions for growing the

seedlings. When the foliage has died down, sift out the roots, and store

in dry peat or cocoa-nut fibre for the winter.



To secure an immediate display of Ranunculuses it is necessary to plant

mature roots. The soil in which they especially thrive is an adhesive

loam or clay. This happens to be unfavourable to their safety in the

winter, and therefore it is wise to defer planting in such soils until

this month. A very simple procedure will suffice to produce handsome,

richly coloured flowers. If possible, choose for the bed a heavy soil in

an open situation, and dress it liberally with decayed manure. Give the

land a deep digging, and lay it up rough, that it may be benefited by

frosts. In January and February fork it lightly over several times, with

the double purpose of making it mellow and of enabling birds to clear it

of vermin. Traps made of hollowed Potatoes will also assist the latter

object. Not later than the third week of February the roots should be

planted in drills drawn six inches apart and two inches deep. Put them

at intervals of four inches in the rows, with the claws downwards, and

cover with fine soil. Keep the bed free from weeds, and give abundant

supplies of water in dry weather. When the foliage is dead, lift the

roots and store for the next season.



The Turban Ranunculus is less delicate than the named varieties, and

there need be less hesitation about autumn planting.



Ricinus.--The Castor-oil Plant is largely cultivated for its striking

ornamental foliage, and under generous treatment it will attain from

four to six feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be

grown in the same manner as Nicotiana.



Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of

this month or the beginning of March will insure plants in condition for

the open ground in May. A moderate hot-bed is requisite now, but in

April the seed may be sown on prepared borders for a summer display of

the veined and pencilled flowers.



Solanum.--The varieties which are grown for winter decoration are much

prized when laden with their bright-coloured berries. Sow the several

kinds in heat, and transfer the seedlings straight to single pots filled

with very rich soil.



Stock, Intermediate.--To form a succession to the Summer-flowering, or

Ten-week, varieties in July and August, seed of the Intermediate Stocks

should be sown in gentle heat during February or March. The treatment

accorded to Ten-week Stocks, described on page 379, will suit the

Intermediate varieties also.



Sweet Peas have in recent years become such an important ornament to

the garden and the flowers are so highly prized for household use that

no effort is spared to insure a long-continued display. With this object

in view seeds are sown in pots and the seedlings transplanted, as soon

as weather permits, to the ground specially prepared in the preceding

autumn. Those who did not sow in September should do so in the latter

part of January or during February. A forcing temperature is injurious,

and the plants thrive best when given practically hardy treatment.



Vallota purpurea.--This handsome bulbous plant is not quite hardy, but

in several of the Southern counties it may be grown in the open ground,

with only the shelter of dry litter or a mat. In pots the bulbs should

not be allowed to go dry through the winter; and when growth commences

in spring, water must be given freely. Good loam suits the Vallota, and

it is desirable to avoid re-potting until the flowering period has

passed: when a transfer becomes necessary, disturb the roots as little

as possible.



Verbena, if not sown last month, should be got in promptly, for it is

important not to hurry the growth of this plant by excessive heat.



Wigandia is a half-hardy perennial, grown exclusively for its noble

tropical foliage. If started now, it will attain a large size as an

annual. It is impossible to grow this plant too well. A lavish

employment of manure and water will secure stately specimens. The

instructions given for Ricinus apply equally to the Wigandia.