LILIES

Hardy border Lilies are among the most useful garden plants known. They

are peculiarly hardy and robust, requiring no support from sticks or

ties; several of them remain green all the winter, and are capable of

resisting any amount of frost. If left alone, they increase rapidly, and

become more valuable every year. We will say nothing of their beauty,

for that is proverbial; but it may be useful to observe that many of the

most lovely Lilies, usually regarded as only suitable for the

greenhouse, and grown with great care under glass, are really as hardy

as the old common white Lily, and may be grown with it in the same

border. To grow Lilies well requires a deep, moist, rich loam. A

stubborn clay may be improved for them by deep digging, and

incorporating with the staple plenty of rotten manure and leaf-mould.

They all thrive in peat, or rotten turf, or, indeed, in any soil

containing an abundance of decomposing vegetable matter. The autumn is

the proper time to plant Lilies, but they may be planted at any season,

if they can be obtained in a dormant state or growing in pots. They

should be planted deep for their size, say, never less than six inches.

After they have stood some years it is necessary to lift and part the

clumps, when the borders should be deeply dug and liberally manured

before replanting. If the stems of Lilies become leafless and unsightly

before the flowers are past, it is a sign that the roots are too dry, or

that the soil is impoverished; and therefore, as soon as the stems die

down, they should be lifted, and perhaps transferred to a more

favourable spot.



Amaryllis.--These magnificent plants do not require the high

temperature in which they are usually grown, nor should they be allowed

to remain for a great length of time dust-dry, as we sometimes find

them. It is important to remember that they have distinct seasons of

activity and rest, but must not be forced into either condition by such

drastic measures as are occasionally resorted to. The proper soil for

them is turfy loam, enriched with rotten manure, and rendered moderately

porous by an admixture of sand. The light soil in which many plants

thrive will not suit them; the soil must be firm, and somewhat rough in

texture. When first potted, give them very little water, and promote

growth by means of a bottom heat of 65 deg.. Increase the supply of water as

the plants progress, and shift them into 6-inch pots for flowering.

While they are in flower they may be placed in the conservatory, or

wherever else they may be required for decorative purposes. When the

flowers have faded take them to the greenhouse to complete their growth,

after which dry them off slowly, but with the clear understanding that

they are never to be desiccated. They may be wintered in the greenhouse,

and should certainly be placed where they will always be slightly moist,

even if a few leaves remain green throughout the winter. Frequent

disturbance of the roots is to be particularly avoided in the

cultivation of Amaryllis, and therefore it is desirable to allow them to

remain in the same pots two or three years; or if they are shifted on,

it should be done in such a way that the roots are scarcely seen in the

process. Top dressing and liquid manure will help them when they have

been some time in the same pots.



Lilium auratum.--This magnificent Lily has proved to be as hardy as

the white garden variety, and is now freely planted in borders and

shrubberies where the noble heads of bloom always command admiration.

But the splendour of the flower will continue to insure for it a high

degree of favour as a decorative subject for the conservatory. When

grown in a pot the best soil is sandy peat, but it will flower finely in

a rich light mixture, such as Fuchsias require. It is advisable to begin

with the smallest pot in which the bulb can be placed, and then to shift

to larger and larger sizes as the plant progresses, taking care to have

the bulb two inches below the soil when in their flowering pots, because

roots are thrown out from the stem just above the bulb, and these roots

need to be carefully fed, as they are the main support of the flowers

that appear later. When the flower-buds are visible, there should, of

course, be no further shifting. In respect of temperature, this is an

accommodating Lily; but as a rule a cool house is better for the plant

than one which is maintained at a high temperature. The supply of water

should be plentiful during the period of growth and flowering, but

afterwards it can be reduced.



Lilium Harrisii (The Bermuda, or Easter Lily) is of the

longiflorum type, but the flowers are larger, and are produced with

greater freedom than by the ordinary L. longiflorum. Moreover, the

Bermuda Lily flowers almost continuously. Before one stem has finished

blooming another shoots up. This perennial habit gives it a peculiar

value for the greenhouse, and renders forcing possible at almost any

season.



Immediately the bulbs are received they should be potted in rich fibrous

loam--the more fibrous the better--and be placed in a cold frame. They

need little water until growth has fairly commenced, after which more

moisture will be necessary. So far as safety is concerned, they only

require protection from frost; but for an early show of bloom artificial

heat is imperative. The temperature should, however, be very moderate at

first, and rise slowly. When the buds show, a top-dressing of fresh loam

and decayed manure will be helpful, and to allow for this the soil must

be two inches from the tops of the pots when the bulbs are first potted.

After producing two or three flowering stems, it will be wise to place

the pots out of doors and give less water, or the bulbs will be

exhausted. But they must never be allowed to become quite dry, and after

a partial rest of six weeks or two months they may be re-potted in fresh

soil and started for another show of bloom.



We do not recommend the planting of this Lily in open borders during

autumn, for growth will commence immediately, and a severe frost will

cut it down; but if planted in spring, it succeeds admirably, and will

produce a long succession of its handsome trumpet-shaped flowers. For

the following winter it can be either protected, or lifted for storing

in a frame.



Lilium lancifolium.--A graceful and highly perfumed Lily, which is

perfectly hardy, and will grow in good loam, though peat is to be

preferred for pot culture. To produce handsome specimens the same

routine must be followed as directed for the cultivation of L.

auratum. It scarcely need be added that, instead of growing the bulbs

separately in pots, several may be grown in a large pot to produce a

richer effect. But it is not advisable to place the bulbs in a large

mass of earth in the first instance. It is better that they should

commence their growth in small pots, and be shifted on as they require

more room. Aphis is extremely partial to these Lilies, particularly if

they are badly grown and allowed to suffer for the want of water. The

simplest way to remove the pest is to dip the plants in pure water,

taking care, of course, to prevent them from falling out of the pots in

the operation.



Lily of the Valley.--The popular name of this native plant is a

misnomer. Botanically it is known as Convallaria majalis, and

structurally the roots differ from those which are characteristic of the

whole tribe of Liliums. However, we have no quarrel with a charming

name for a most dainty flower of fairy-like proportions. The sprays of

pure white pendulous bells have captivated the popular fancy, and they

are in public demand from the moment florists are able to place them on

the market.



Whether for early or late spring forcing, or for planting in the open

ground, the most vigorous strain should be chosen, and there is one

which is incomparably superior to all others, producing finer spikes and

larger individual flowers. As a rule these roots are obtainable in

November, but, if necessary, it is far better to wait a week or two than

attempt to force such as have been lifted prematurely.



The crowns may be potted, and where few are grown this is the usual

course. The large growers pack them in boxes, with a little fine soil,

and cover the tops with about four inches of cocoa-nut fibre. For the

earliest supply a temperature of 90 deg. is necessary, accompanied with

plenty of moisture. After the spikes of bloom show, slightly reduce the

temperature, and remove the fibre to afford the leaves an opportunity of

maturing. When sufficiently advanced transfer the plants to pots for the

conservatory or the decoration of windows. Successive supplies can be

brought forward with less heat.



In the open, Lily of the Valley require a partially shaded position. The

soil must be freely manured, and a good proportion of leaf-mould worked

in. Plant single crowns at a distance of six inches from each other, and

supply them with liquid manure during the growing period. After four, or

at most five years, they will become too crowded, when they should be

lifted, and the largest and finest crowns be selected for the formation

of a fresh bed.



Japanese Day Lily (Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pl.).--Admirably adapted

for pot culture to decorate the conservatory, the rich variegation of

its graceful curling leaves affording an elegant display of colour in

the early months of the year, and its fine double flowers being

extremely showy during their short blooming season. As this variety is

quite hardy, it may be planted in the select border with perfect safety,

and, in common with other Day Lilies, it bears the shade of trees

remarkably well. This is certainly one of the handsomest hardy plants in

cultivation.