MARCH
This is the great season for garden work, and the gardener must be up
with the lark and go to bed with the robin, which is the latest of birds
to bid farewell to a sunny day. The first care should be
to make good
all arrears, especially in the preparation of seed-beds, and the
cleaning of plots that are in any way disorderly. Where early-sown crops
have evidently failed, sow again without complaining; seed costs but
little, and a good plant is the earnest of a good crop; a bad plant will
probably never pay the rent of the ground it occupies. Keen east winds
may cause immense damage, but a little protection provided in time will
do wonders to ward off their effects, and the sunny days that are now so
welcome, and that we are pretty sure to have, will afford opportunity
for giving air to plants in frames, for clearing away litter, and for
the regular routine work of the season.
Seed of almost every vegetable grown in the garden may be sown in the
month of March. Make successional sowings of whatever it may be
advisable to put under cover or on heat, and then proceed with
open-ground sowings as weather and circumstances permit. The weather is
the master of outdoor work, and it is sheer waste of time to fight
against it. It is better to wait to the end of the month, or even far
into the next, before sowing a seed than to sow on pasty ground. But it
matters not how dry the ground may be, and if the wind blows keenly,
that should only be an inducement to brisk action; for seeds well sown
have everything in their favour if they are not too early for the
district. Very important indeed it is now to secure a Hot-bed.--To
make one is easy enough, but it is of no use to half make it; for
half-acres in this department do not bear good corn. In the first place,
secure a great bulk of manure, and if it is long and green, turn it two
or three times, taking care that it is always moderately moist, but
never actually wet. If the stuff is too dry, sprinkle with water at
every turn, and let it steam away to take the rankest fire out of it.
Then make it up where required in a square heap, allowing it to settle
in its own way without treading or beating. Put on a foot-depth of
light, rich soil after the frames are in their places, and wait a few
days to sow the seed in case of a great heat rising. When the
temperature is steady and comfortable, sow seeds in pots and pans, as
needful, the quantity required of each separate crop, and stand them on
bricks above the bed, and the heat will then be none too much for them.
In the course of a few days finish the work by putting in a body of
earth. Do not attempt to hurry the growth of anything overmuch, for
undue haste will produce a weak plant; rather give air and light in
plenty, but with care to prevent injurious check, and the plants will be
short and healthy from the first.
Artichokes, Globe, to be cleared of protecting material as soon as
weather permits, and fresh plantations made ready for suckers to be put
in next month. A new plantation may also be formed by sowing seeds; in
fact, a sowing ought to be made every year. Where early produce is
required, the plants should be protected during winter to supply suckers
in the spring; but, if late supplies suffice, the sowing of a few rows
every year will reduce the labour, and render the production of Globe
Artichokes a very simple affair.
Artichokes, Jerusalem, may be planted now advantageously. Strong, deep
soil produces the best crop, and large roots are always preferred by the
cook, because of the inevitable waste in preparing this vegetable. The
Jerusalem Artichoke is certainly not properly appreciated, and one
reason is that it is often carelessly grown in any out-of-the-way
starving corner, whereas it needs a sunny, open spot, and a strong, deep
soil, and plenty of room. To hide an ugly fence during summer no more
useful plant is grown.
Asparagus.--Little attention is required as yet, except to remove
every weed as soon as it can be seen. If the beds are dry, and there are
no indications of coming rain, one good soaking of water or weak sewage
will be very beneficial. Mark out and make beds for sowing seed next
month.
Bean, Broad.--Plant out those raised in frames, and earth up those
from early sowings that are forward enough. Sow for main crops and late
supplies. In late districts a few of the earliest sorts may be sown to
come in before the Windsor section.
Beet.--Sow a little seed for an early supply, in well-dug mellow soil.
The crop will need protection in the event of frost.
Broccoli for autumn use to be sown early; and at the end of the month
sow again in quantity for winter supplies. In mild weather, put out the
plants from the earlier sowings made in frames as soon as they are fit
and well hardened.
Brussels Sprouts.--Look after the bed sown last month, and sow again
for the main crop. The best possible seed-bed is wanted and a rich
well-tilled soil for the plants when put out.
Cabbage of two or three kinds should be sown now to supply plants for
filling up as crops are taken off, and also to patch and mend where
failures happen. Where the owner of a garden has opportunities of
helping his poorer neighbours, he may confer a real benefit by supplying
them with Cabbage and Winter Greens for planting in their garden plots.
Cottagers too often begin with bad stocks--very much to their
discouragement in gardening, and to the loss of wholesome food the
garden should supply. The rankest manure may be employed in preparing
ground for Cabbage, reserving the well-rotted manure for seed-beds and
other purposes for which it will be required. A sowing of Red Cabbage
now will insure heads for pickling in autumn.
Carrot.--Sow one of the quick-growing varieties at the first
opportunity, but wait for signs of settled spring weather to sow the
main crops of large sorts.
Cauliflower.--Plant out as weather permits from hand-lights and
frames, choosing the best ground for this vegetable. In preparing a plot
for Cauliflower, use plenty of manure; and if it is only half-rotten, it
will be better than if it were old and mellow.
Celeriac.--So far as seed sowing is concerned, Celeriac may be treated
in the same way as Celery.
Celery.--For the earliest supply, sow on the first of the month a
pinch of seed of one or more of the smaller red or white sorts on a
mild hot-bed, or in an early vinery. As soon as the plants are large
enough to handle, prick them out three inches apart on a nice mellow bed
of rich soil on a half-spent hot-bed; give them plenty of light, with
free ventilation as weather allows, and constant supplies of water.
About the middle of the month sow again and prick out as before; but if
no hot-bed is available, a well-prepared bed in a frame in a sunny
position will answer; or, if the season is somewhat advanced, a bed of
rotten manure, two or three inches deep, on a piece of hard ground, will
suffice, if the plants are kept regularly watered. From this bed they
will lift with nice roots for planting out, scarcely feeling the removal
at all.
Chives to be divided and re-planted on a spot which has not previously
been occupied with the crop.
Cucumber.--The vines should now be in a flourishing condition, but it
is necessary to look forward to the day when they will fall into the
sere and yellow leaf. More seed sown singly in pots will provide a
succession of plants. Re-pot them once or twice if desirable, and when
large enough turn them out between the first lot. As the old plants
fail, the new-comers will supply their places. Setting the bloom, as it
is called, is not only useless, but is a mischievous procedure. It
results in the enlargement of one end of the fruit, and ruins its
appearance. If seed be the object, of course the process is justifiable;
but for the table a 'bottle nose' cannot be regarded as an ornament.
Besides, the ripening of seed in a single fruit will materially diminish
the usefulness of the plant, and perhaps entirely end its career.
Stopping the vine is a necessity, but it should not be done too soon. In
the early stage of growth, it reduces the vigour of the plant and
retards its fruiting; but when the fruit is visible, stopping aids its
development and at the same time tends to regulate and equalise the
growth.
Frame culture of Cucumbers is usually begun in March. There are men who
can produce fruit from hot-beds all the year round, but it is a
difficult task, and as a rule ought not to be expected. At this time of
year, however, success is fairly within reach of ordinary skill. In
quite the early part of the month put seed singly into pots which must
be kept in a warm, moist place. The plants will then be ready for frames
at the end of the month. The most important business is the preparation
of the bed, and in this, as in all else, there is a right and a wrong
way of doing the work. Accurately set out the space on which it is to be
made. If there is plenty of manure, make the bed large enough to project
eighteen inches beyond the lights all round. But if manure is scarce,
cut the margin closer, and trust to a hot lining when the heat begins to
flag. Commence with the outside of the bed, employing the long stuff in
its construction; and keep this part of the work a little in advance of
the centre until the full height is reached. A bed made in this way will
not fall to pieces, and the heat will be durable in proportion to its
size and thickness. Where fallen leaves are abundant, they should be
used for the middle of the bed, and they will give a more lasting heat
than short manure. When the bed has settled down to a steady
temperature, add six or nine inches of mellow loam over the entire
surface, upon which place the frames. To insure drainage, it is an
excellent plan to lay common flake hurdles on the top of the heap before
adding the soil. These do not in the least interfere with the free
running of the roots. It is usual to have two plants under each light,
but where the management is good, one is quite enough. The subsequent
work consists of shading and sheltering, to prevent any serious check
from trying weather, and in giving just water enough and no more. The
fermenting material should sustain the temperature of the frame, even
during frosty nights, and mats will screen off strong sunshine as well
as cold winds. The plants will need stopping earlier than those grown in
houses, and as there are no hot-pipes to dissipate the moisture, rather
less water will be necessary, both in the soil and from the syringe. But
the water employed should always be of the same temperature as the bed.
This is easily managed by keeping a full can standing with the plants.
In large frames, where there is a good body of manure and the loam is
mellow and turfy, pieces of Mushroom spawn can be inserted all over the
bed. The Mushrooms may appear while the bed is in full bearing; but if
they do not they will come when the plants are cleared out, and pay well
to keep the lights in use another month or so.
Garlic may still be planted, but no time is to be lost.
Herbs of many kinds may be sown or divided, and it will be necessary
to look over the Herb quarter and see how things stand for the supplies
that will be required. A little later, excess of work may prevent due
attention to this department.
Horse-radish to be planted, if not done already.
Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, to be sown in small quantity at the end of
the month, and onwards to August, as required. If cooked while young,
the bulbs are an excellent substitute for Turnips in a hot, dry season.
Leek.--Sow the main crop in very rich, well-prepared soil, and rather
thickly, as the seedlings will have to be planted out. With a little
management this sowing will yield a succession of Leeks.
Lettuce.--Plant out and sow again in quantity. All the kinds may be
sown now, but make sure of enough of the Cos and smaller Cabbage
varieties. In hot, dry soils, where Lettuces usually run to seed early,
try some of the red-leaved kinds, for though less delicate than the
green and white, they will be useful in the event of a scorching summer.
Lettuces require a deep free soil with plenty of manure.
Melon.--Raise a few seeds singly in pots, in readiness for putting
under frames on hot-beds next month. Re-pot the plants, and repeat the
process if the beds are not ready, for Melons must not be starved,
especially in the early stage of growth. Some growers make up the beds
in March, and sow upon them when the heat becomes steady, but the
practice is somewhat precarious. In a cold, late spring the heat may not
last a sufficient time to carry the plants safely into warm weather.
Hence it is more reliable to raise them now in a warm house, and make
the bed at the beginning of April.
Onion.--The plants already raised in boxes to be removed to cold
frames. If necessary, they should be pricked off into other boxes in
order to avoid overcrowding. Keep the frames close at first, but give
air with increasing freedom as the time approaches for transfer to the
open ground. Sow the main crop in drills nine inches apart, and tread or
beat the ground firm. This crop requires a rich soil in a thoroughly
clean and mellow condition, and it makes a capital finish to the
seed-bed to give it a good coat of charred rubbish or smother ash before
sowing the seed.
Parsnip.--Sow main crop in shallow drills eighteen inches apart in
good soil deeply dug. The seed should be lightly covered, and new seed
is indispensable.
Pea.--Sow the finest sorts of the Marrowfat class. Take care to put
them on the best seed-bed that can be made, and allow sufficient room
between the taller sorts for a few rows of Cabbage, Broccoli, or
Potatoes. A crowded quarter of Peas is never satisfactory; the rows
smother each other, and the shaded parts of the haulm produce next to
nothing.
Potato.--A small quantity for early use should be planted at the
opening of the month when the ground is dry and the weather soft. If
planted when frost or cold winds prevail, sets may become somewhat
shrivelled before they are covered, and every care should be taken to
prevent such a check to the initial vigour of the plant. The
first-early sorts will necessarily have the chief attention now, and
warm sheltered spots should be selected for them. Any fairly good soil
will produce a passable crop of Potatoes; but to secure a first-class
sample of any early sort, the ground should be made up with the aid of
turfy soil and charrings of hedge clippings and other light, warm,
nourishing material. Strong manures are not to be desired, but a mellow,
kindly, fertile soil is really necessary, and it will always pay well to
take extra pains in its preparation, because all the light rubbish that
accumulates in yards and outhouses can be turned to account with only a
moderate amount of labour, and the result of careful appropriation of
such rubbish will be thoroughly satisfactory. Burn all the chips and
sticks and other stubborn stuff, and lay the mixture in the trenches
when planting, so that the roots may find it at their first start. As
the Potato disease does not usually appear until late in summer, early
planting is a safe precaution, for it insures early ripening of the
crop. The planting of main crops may commence towards the end of March
and be completed during April, according to the locality and the
condition of the soil.
Radish.--From March to September make successive sowings in the
coolest place that can be found for them.
Scorzonera to be treated much the same as Salsify. See note on the
latter under April.
Sea Kale to be sown in well-prepared beds; or plantations may be made
of the smaller roots of the thickness of a lead pencil, and about four
inches in length. Plant them top end uppermost, and deep enough to be
just covered.
Spinach.--Sow in plenty. The Perpetual or Spinach Beet should not be
forgotten. This is one of the most useful vegetables known, as it
endures heat and cold with impunity, and when common Spinach is running
to seed the Perpetual variety remains green and succulent, and fit to
supply the table all the summer long.
Spinach, New Zealand, is another excellent vegetable in high summer
when the Round-seeded variety is worthless. The plant is rather tender,
and for an early supply the seed must be sown in moderate heat, either
in this month or in April. When large enough, get the seedlings into
small pots, and gradually harden them before planting in the open about
the end of May.
Strawberries.--Spring is undoubtedly preferable to autumn for
planting, and results in a finer crop of fruit in the following year.
Just as growth is commencing is the most favourable time, and this, of
course, depends on the character of the season. Alpine Strawberries may
be sown outdoors this month or in September for fruiting in the
succeeding year.
Tomato.--In ordinary seasons and in the southern counties there is no
difficulty in producing handsome Tomatoes in the open border; but to
ripen the fruit with certainty it is imperative that an early variety be
chosen. With the rise of latitude, however, the crop becomes
increasingly precarious, until in the North it is impossible to finish
Tomatoes without the aid of glass. For plants which are to ripen fruit
in the open, a sowing should be made early in the month, in the manner
advised under January. Plants which are ready should be transferred to
small thumb pots. Put them in so that the first leaves touch the rim of
the pot, and place them in a close frame or warm part of the greenhouse
for a few days until the roots take hold. To save them from becoming
leggy, give each plant ample space, and avoid a forcing temperature. A
shelf in a greenhouse is a good position, and plants in a single row
upon it will grow stout and short-jointed. Thrips and aphis are
extremely partial to Tomatoes. Frequent sprinklings in bright weather
will help to keep down the former, and will at the same time benefit the
plants. Both pests can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, and when
the remedy is to be applied water should be withheld on that day. A
moderate amount of smoke in the evening and another application in the
morning will be more destructive to the vermin, and less injurious to
the plants, than one strong dose. The usual syringing must follow.
Plants for the open ground must not be starved while in pots; they will
need potting on until the 4-1/2-inch or 6-inch size is reached, and it
is important that they should never be dry at the roots. Shading will
only be necessary during fierce sunshine; in early morning and late in
the afternoon they will be better without it.
Water Cress.--It is quite a mistake to suppose that a running stream
is requisite for growing this plant, and it is equally a mistake to
suppose that the proper flavour can be secured without the constant use
of water. Sow in a trench, water regularly and copiously, and mild and
tender Water Cress will reward the labour.
Winter Greens of all kinds to be sown in plenty and in considerable
variety; for in the event of a severe winter some kinds will prove
hardier than others.
Previous: FEBRUARY
Next: APRIL
|
| SHARE |
|
| ADD TO EBOOK |
