Beta vulgaris
As a food plant the Beet scarcely obtains the attention it deserves.
There is no lack of appreciation of its beauty for purposes of
garnishing, or of its flavour as the component of a salad; but other
uses to which it is
amenable for the comfort and sustenance of man are
sometimes neglected. As a simple dish to accompany cold meats the Beet
is most acceptable. Dressed with vinegar and white pepper, it is at once
appetising, nutritive, and digestible. Served as fritters, it is by some
people preferred to Mushrooms, as it then resembles them in flavour, and
is more easily digested. It makes a first-rate pickle, and as an agent
in colouring it has a recognised value, because of the perfect
wholesomeness of the rich crimson hue it imparts to any article of food
requiring it.
Frame Culture.--Where the demand for Beet exists the whole year
through, early sowings in heat are indispensable. For this method of
cultivation the Globe variety should be employed, and two sowings, the
first in February and another in March, will generally provide a good
supply of roots in advance of the outdoor crops. Sow in drills on a
gentle hot-bed and thin the plants from six to nine inches apart in the
rows. As soon as the plants are large enough, give air at every suitable
opportunity. Fresh young Beets grown in this way find far more favour at
table than those which have been stored for several months. They are
also of great service for exhibition, especially in collections of early
vegetables.
Preparation of Ground.--The cultivation of Beet is of the most simple
nature, but a certain amount of care is requisite for the production of
a handsome and profitable crop. Beet will make a fair return on any soil
that is properly prepared for it; but to grow this root to perfection a
rich light loam is necessary, free from any trace of recent or strong
manure. A rank soil, or one to which manure has been added shortly
before sowing the seed, will produce ugly roots, some coarse with
overgrowth, others forked and therefore of little value, and others,
perhaps, cankered and worthless. The soil should be well prepared by
deep digging some time before making up the seed-bed, and it is sound
practice to grow Beet on plots that have been heavily manured in the
previous year for Cauliflower, Celery, or any other crop requiring good
cultivation. If the soil from an old Melon or Cucumber bed can be
spared, it may be spread over the land and dug in, and the piece should
be broken up in good time to become mellow before the seed is sown.
Seaweed is a capital manure for Beet, especially if laid at the bottom
of the trench when preparing the ground. A moderate dressing of salt may
be added with advantage, as the Beet is a seaside plant.
Early Crops.--Where frames are not available for providing early
supplies of Beetroot, forward crops may often be obtained from the open
ground by making sowings of the Globe variety from the end of March to
mid-April, in a sheltered position. Of course, the earlier the sowing
the greater the risk of destruction by frost, and birds may take the
seedlings. A double thickness of fish netting, however, stretched over
stakes about one foot above the soil, will afford protection from the
former and prevent the depredations of the latter. Set the drills about
twelve inches apart and sow the seed one and a half to two inches deep.
Thin the plants early and allow them to stand finally at nine inches in
the rows.
Main Crop.--The most important crop is that required for salading, for
which a deep-coloured Beet of rich flavour is to be preferred, and the
aim of the cultivator should be to obtain roots of moderate size and of
perfect shape and finish. The ground having been trenched two spades
deep early in the year, may be made up into four-and-a-half-feet beds
some time in March, preparatory to sowing the seed. The main sowing
should never be made until quite the end of April or beginning of May.
For a neat crop, sow in drills one and a half to two inches deep, and
spaced from twelve to fifteen inches apart. When finally thinned the
plants should stand about nine inches apart in the rows. Hand weeding
will have to follow soon after sowing, and perhaps the hoe may be
required to supplement the hand. The thinning should be commenced as
early as possible, but it is waste of time to plant the thinnings, and
it is equally waste of time to water the crop. In fact, if the ground is
well prepared, weeding and thinning comprise the whole remainder of the
cultivation.
Some of the smaller and more delicate Beets, of a very dark colour, may
be sown in drills a foot or fifteen inches apart and thinned to six
inches distance in the drills. We have, indeed, lifted pretty crops of
the smaller Beets at four inches, but it is not prudent to crowd the
plants, as the result will be thin roots with long necks.
On stony shallow soils, where it is difficult to grow handsome long
Beets, the Globe and Intermediate varieties may be tried with the
prospect of a satisfactory result. We have in hot seasons found these
most useful on a damp clay where fine specimens of long Beet were rarely
obtainable. From this same unkind clay it is possible to secure good
crops of long Beets, by making deep holes with a dibber a foot apart and
filling these with sandy stuff from the compost yard and sowing the seed
over them. It is a tedious process, but it benefits the land for the
next crop, and the Beets pay for it in the first instance.
Late Crops.--By sowing the Globe or Turnip-rooted varieties in July,
useful roots may be obtained during the autumn and winter. Space the
drills as advised for early crops. Seed may also with advantage be
thinly sown broadcast; the young plants will thus protect one another,
and the roots may be pulled as they mature.
Lifting and Storing.--A Beet crop may be left in the ground during the
winter if aided by a covering of litter during severe frost. But it is
safer out of the ground than in it, and the proper time to lift is when
a touch of autumn frost has been experienced. Dry earth or sand, in
sufficient quantity, should be ready for the storing, and a clamp in a
sheltered corner will answer if shed room is scarce. In any case, a dry
and cool spot is required, for damp will beget mildew, and warmth will
cause growth. In cutting off the tops before storing, take care not to
cut too near the crown, or injurious bleeding will follow. On the other
hand, the long fang-like roots may be shortened without harm, for the
slight bleeding that will occur at that end will not affect more than
the half-inch or so next to the cut part. A little experience will teach
anyone that Beets must be handled with care, or the goodness will run
out of them. Many cooks bake Beets because boiling so often spoils them;
but if they are in no way cut or bruised, and are plunged into boiling
water and kept boiling for a sufficient length of time--half an hour to
two hours, according to size--there will be but a trifling difference
between boiling and baking.
The Silver, or Sea Kale, Beet is grown principally for the stalk and
the midrib of the leaf, considered by some to be equal to Asparagus. In
a rank soil, with plenty of liquid manure, the growth is quick, robust,
and the plant of good quality, without the necessity of earthing up. Sow
in April and May, thinly in drills, and allow the plants eventually to
stand at about fifteen inches apart each way. The leaves should be
pulled, not cut. As the stalks often turn black in cooking, it is
advisable to add a few drops of lemon-juice to the water in which they
are boiled, and, of course, soda should never be used. They should be
served up in the same manner as Asparagus. The remainder of the leaf is
dressed as Spinach.
BORECOLE, or KALE
Brassica oleracea acephala
The Borecoles or Kales are indispensable for the supply of winter
vegetables, and their importance becomes especially manifest when severe
frost has made general havoc in the Kitchen Garden. Then it is seen that
the hardier Borecoles are proof against the lowest temperature
experienced in these islands; and, while frost leaves the plants
unharmed, it improves the tops and side sprouts that are required for
table purposes.
As regards soil, the Borecoles are the least particular of the whole
race of Brassicas. They appear to be capable of supplying the table
with winter greens even when grown on hard rocky soil, but good loam
suits them admirably, and a strong clay, well tilled, will produce a
grand sample. Granting, then, that a good soil is better than a bad one,
we urge the sowing of seed as early as possible for insuring to the
plant a long season of growth. But early sowing should be followed by
early planting, for it is bad practice to leave the plants crowded in
the seed-bed until the summer is far advanced. This, however, is often
unavoidable, and it is well to consider in time where the plants are to
go, and when, according to averages, the ground will be vacant to
receive them. The first sowing may be made early in March, and another
in the middle of April. These two sowings will suffice for almost all
the purposes that can be imagined. A good seed-bed in an open spot is
absolutely necessary. It is usual to draw direct from the seed-bed for
planting out as opportunities occur, and this method answers fairly
well. But when large enough it is better practice to prick out as a
preparation for the final planting, because a stouter and handsomer
plant is thereby secured. If it is intended to follow the rough and
ready plan, the seed drills should be nine inches apart; but for
pricking out six inches will answer, and thus a very small bed will
provide a lot of plants. When pricked out, the plants should be six
inches apart each way, and they should go to final quarters as soon as
the leaves touch one another. On the flat, a fair distance between
Borecoles is two feet apart each way, but some vigorous kinds in good
ground will pay for another foot of space, and will yield enormous crops
when their time arrives. Transplanting is usually done in June and July,
and in many gardens Kales are planted between the rows of second-early
or maincrop Potatoes. The work should be done during showery weather if
possible, but these Brassicas have an astonishing degree of vitality. If
put out during drought very little water is required to start them, and
as the cool weather returns they will grow with vigour. But good
cultivation saves a plant from extreme conditions; and it is an
excellent practice to dig in green manure when preparing ground for
Kales, because a free summer growth is needful to the formation of a
stout productive plant.
We have suggested that two sowings may be regarded as generally
sufficient, but we are bound to take notice of the fact that the late
supplies of these vegetables are sometimes disappointing. In a mild
winter the Kales reserved for use in spring will be likely to grow when
they should stand still, and at the first break of pleasant spring
weather they will bolt, very much to the vexation of those who expected
many a basket of sprouts from them. A May sowing planted out in a cold
place may stand without bolting until spring is somewhat advanced. Kale
of the 'Asparagus' type, such as Sutton's Favourite, will often prove
successful when sown as late as July.
As regards the varieties, they agree pretty nearly in constitution,
although they differ much in appearance and in the power of resisting
the excitement of spring weather. But in this section of vegetables
there are a few very interesting subjects. The Variegated and Crested
Kales are extremely ornamental and eminently useful in large places for
decorative purposes. These do not require so rich a soil as Sutton's A1
or Curled Scotch, and they must have the fullest exposure to bring out
their peculiarities. It is found that in somewhat dry calcareous soils
these plants acquire their highest colour and most elegant proportions.
When planted by the sides of carriage drives and in other places where
their colours may be suitably displayed, it is a good plan to cut off
the heads soon after the turn of the year, as this promotes the
production of side shoots of the most beautiful fresh colours. A crop of
Kale may be advantageously followed by Celery.
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Next: BROCCOLI
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