The cultural work in the asparagus bed during the first year consists in
loosening the soil at frequent intervals, and especially as soon after
rain as the ground becomes dry enough for cultivation. Frequent and
thorough cultivation is necessary not only to keep
down the weeds, but
also to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil after rain, and to
provide a mulch of loose earth for the retention of moisture. In field
culture the work is best done with a one-horse cultivator or a
wheel-hoe, and on a small scale with a scuffle-hoe and a rake. As the
sprouts grow up small quantities of fine soil should be drawn into the
trenches from time to time, but during the early part of the season
great care must be exercised not to cover the crowns too deeply.
Some growers advise to work the soil away instead of toward the plants,
considering the four inches of soil with which the roots are covered at
planting sufficient for the first year. While this may be true in a wet
or moderately moist summer, in a season of drouth the additional mulch
of mellow soil can not but be beneficial to the young and tender plants.
Especial care is required when working around the young sprouts, so as
not to cover, break, or in any way injure any of them.
In the garden bed it pays to stake the canes when they are but a foot
high, so as to prevent the wind from disturbing the stools in the soil
by swaying the shoots backward and forward. Careful gardeners insert
stakes for this purpose at the time of planting, before the roots are
covered with soil, so as to guard against the danger of injuring any of
them. The best material for this tying is raffia, or Cuban bast. In
field culture staking is usually not practicable, partly on account of
the cost, and also because where there are many plants growing close
together they furnish some mutual protection to one another. The same
end may also be accomplished--partly, at least--by throwing up a furrow
on each side of the rows of plants. Precautions of this kind are
important in localities exposed to high winds, as their neglect may
often cause greater loss than it would have cost to provide proper
protection.
Another important work in the asparagus bed during the first year is to
keep close and constant watch over the asparagus beetle, and at its
first appearance to apply the remedies recommended in the chapter on
injurious insects. Plants deprived of their foliage at this early stage
of their life have but a poor chance to recover from the loss.
If it is found that some of the plants have not started by the middle of
June, it is best to replace them with growing plants of the same age,
which should have been kept in a reserve bed for this purpose. If this
replanting is done carefully, so as not to mutilate any of the roots,
and on a cloudy day, it is best not to cut back the tops very severely.
Unless a copious rain sets in soon after planting, the roots have to be
heavily watered, after which they will keep on growing at once without
suffering any setback.
The formerly all but universal practice was to cover the roots with
manure after the stalks had been removed in the fall for fear of frost
injuring or killing the roots. In sections where winters are very severe
this may still be desirable, as may be seen from the statement of so
keen an observer as Professor J. C. Whitten, of the Missouri Experiment
Station: "Most writers advise applying dressing of old fine manure
during the growing season when the plants can use it. In our soil better
results are obtained by applying it in winter. It prevents the soil from
running together and hardening, and also prevents the sprouts from
coming through, as they otherwise often do, too early in spring, and
becoming weakened by subsequent severe freezing."
As the reverse of this plan, M. Godefroy-Leboeuf, the famous French
authority, recommends "to clear out of the trenches the soil which has
fallen into them from the sides of the mounds, and also remove from
above the stools a portion of that with which they were covered at the
time they were planted--say, to a depth of one and one-half inches--so
that the action of the frost may open the soil and that the rain may
penetrate and improve it; also that during the first fine days of spring
the sun may warm the surface of the soil and penetrate as far as the
stools. There is no fear that the action of the frost should hurt the
plants. Asparagus will never freeze as long as the stool is covered with
a layer of soil one and one-half to one and three-fourth inches in
depth."
If the rows are not less than four feet apart a crop of some other
vegetables may be raised between them. Beans, dwarf peas, lettuce,
beets, or any kinds which do not spread much, are suitable for the
purpose. These by-products will help considerably toward paying the cost
of cultivating the main crop, besides having a tendency to keep the soil
cool and moist, a condition of no little importance to the asparagus.
Previous: Cultivation
Next: Care During The Second Year
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