Violets

Requiring even less heat than the carnation is the old-time and all-time

favorite, the violet. With no greenhouse at all, these can be grown

beautifully, simply with the aid of a coldframe. But where a house is to

be had, the season of blooming is, of course, much longer. The essential

thing is to get strong, healthy plants. As with the carnations, if only

a few are wanted, they may be grown in pots, using the six-inch size.

The soil, whether for pots or benches, should be somewhat heavier than

that prepared for carnations, using one-fourth to one-fifth cow manure

added to the loam or rotted sod. If a bench is used, select one as near

the glass as you can. Take in the plants with as little disturbance as

possible, and keep them shaded for a few days, as with carnations. The

plants will require to be about eight inches apart. As for care, apply

water only when the bed has begun to dry, and then until the bench is

soaked through. Pots will, of course, require more frequent attention in

this matter than a bench. Keep all old leaves picked off and the soil

stirred about the plants, with syringing and fumigating as suggested on

page 134. The temperature will be best as low as forty-five degrees at

night, and as little above fifteen more in the daytime as possible.

Where no artificial heat can be had, a fine crop through the spring

months may be had by making a smaller frame inside the regular

coldframe, and packing this space with fine dry manure, as well as

banking the outer frame. This arrangement, with two sash and mats in the

coldest weather, will keep the plants growing most of the winter, and

certainly the abundance of fragrant blooms at a season when flowers are

most scarce will amply repay you for the trouble. Some prefer the single

to the double blossoms. Marie Louise and Lady Hume Campbell (double

blue); Swanley White, and California and Princesse de Galles (single

blue) are the best varieties. Plants may be purchased of most large

florists or from seedsmen.