Thrid Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.





Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always

unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.

Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water

settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, bulbs,

or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be

removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in

perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead

or decaying leaf and flower to be removed.



Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such

coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much

injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere.

Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all

opportunities.



Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally

shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a

slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and

free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be

the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs

of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water,

increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.



Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more

time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very

fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this

time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth.

Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in

boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance

of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very

dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to

shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence

the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation;

as the treatment required for Oncidium Carthaginense would kill O.

bifolium, and Cattleya Forbesii will thrive where C. Skinneri will

die, and in like manner with many others.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in

heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into

small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when

necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south

border.



Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate

temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to

swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the

temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere.



Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich

soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the

plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading

shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from

the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will

come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.



Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air

where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis

towards noon for dispersing the pollen.



Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.



Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are

impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free

circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the

bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55

deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water

until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.



Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for

Capsicums.



Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are

sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots

to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required

for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the

shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow

from one joint one of them should be removed.