The Bulb Garden

Every lover of flowers should have a garden of bulbs, for three reasons:

First, they bloom so early in the season that one can have flowers at

least six weeks longer than it is possible to have them if only

perennial and annual plants are depended on. Some bulbs come into bloom

as soon as the snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by those of

later habit, and a constant succession of bloom can be secured by a

judicious selection of varieties, thus completely tiding over the

usually flowerless period between the going of winter and the coming of

the earlier spring flowers. Second, they require but little care, much

less than the ordinary plant. Give them a good soil to grow in, and keep

weeds and grass from encroaching on them, and they will ask no other

attention from you, except when, because of a multiplication of bulbs,

they need to be separated and reset, which will be about every third

year. The work required in doing this is no more than that involved in

spading up a bed for annual flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even at

the extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom from them if they are

given a good covering in fall, which is a very easy matter to do.



For richness and variety of color this class of plants stands

unrivalled. The bulb garden is more brilliant than the garden of annuals

which succeeds it.



September is the proper month in which to make the bulb garden.



As a general thing, persons fail to plant their bulbs until October and

often November, thinking the time of planting makes very little

difference so long as they are put into the ground before winter sets

in. Here is where a serious mistake is made. Early planting should

always be the rule,--for this reason: Bulbs make their annual growth

immediately after flowering, and ripen off by midsummer. After this,

they remain dormant until fall, when new root-growth takes place, and

the plant gets ready for the work that will be demanded of it as soon as

spring opens. It is made during the months of October and November, if

cold weather does not set in earlier, and should be fully completed

before the ground freezes. If incomplete--as is always the case when

late planting is done--the plants are obliged to do--or attempt to

do--double duty in spring. That is, the completion of the work left

undone in fall and the production of flowers must go on at the same

time, and this is asking too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine,

perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-system to supply the

strength and nutriment needed for such a task, therefore the plants are

not in a condition to do themselves justice. Often late-planted bulbs

fail to produce any flowers, and, in most instances, the few flowers

they do give are small and inferior in all respects.



With early-planted bulbs it is quite different, because they had all the

late fall-season to complete root-growth in, and when winter closed in

it found them ready for the work of spring.



Therefore, do not neglect the making of your bulb garden until winter is

at hand under the impression that if the bulbs are planted any time

before snow comes, all is well. This is the worst mistake you could

possibly make.



The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent out about the first of

September. Send in your order for the kinds you decide on planting at

once, and as soon as your order has gone, set about preparing the place

in which you propose to plant them. Have everything in readiness for

them when they arrive, and put them into the ground as soon after they

are received as possible.



The soil in which bulbs should be planted cannot be too carefully

prepared, as much of one's success with these plants depends upon this

most important item. It must be rich, and it must be fine and mellow.



The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy loam.



The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted cow-manure. On no account

should fresh manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that which is

black from decomposition, and will crumble readily under the application

of the hoe, or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material is not too

much. Bulbs are great eaters, and unless they are well fed you cannot

expect large crops of fine flowers from them. And they must be well

supplied with nutritious food each year, because the crop of next season

depends largely upon the nutriment stored up this season.



If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substitute bonemeal. Use the fine

meal, in the proportion of a pound to each yard square of surface. More,

if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the soil is heavy with clay,

add sand enough to lighten it, if possible.



The ideal location for bulbs is one that is naturally well drained, and

has a slope to the south.



Unless drainage is good success cannot be expected, as nothing injures a

bulb more than water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not have a

place suitable for them so far as natural drainage is concerned, see to

it that artificial drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the bed

to the depth of a foot and a half. That is--throw the soil out of it to

that depth,--and put into the bottom of the excavation at least four

inches of material that will not decay readily, like broken brick,

pottery, clinkers from the coal-stove, coarse gravel--anything that will

be permanent and allow water to run off through the cracks and crevices

in it, thus securing a system of drainage that will answer all purposes

perfectly. It is of the utmost importance that this should be done on

all heavy soils. Unless the water from melting snows and early spring

rains drains away from the bulbs readily you need not expect flowers

from them.



After having arranged for drainage, work over the soil thrown out of the

bed until it is as fine and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mix

whatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when you do this, that the

two may be thoroughly incorporated. Then return it to the bed. There

will be more than enough to fill the bed, because some space is given up

to drainage material, but this will be an advantage because it will

enable you to so round up the surface that water will run off before it

has time to soak into the soil to much depth.



I do not think it advisable to say much about plans for bulb-beds,

because comparatively few persons seem inclined to follow instructions

along this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is the better

satisfaction it will give, as a general thing. It is the flower that is

in the bed that should be depended on to give pleasure rather than the

shape of the bed containing it.



I would advise locating bulb-beds near the house where they can be

easily seen from the living-room windows. These beds can be utilized

later on for annuals, which can be sown or planted above the bulbs

without interfering with them in any respect.



I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that, I mean, planting Tulips,

Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other kinds in the same bed. They will not

harmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be found vastly more

pleasing when kept by itself.



I would also advise keeping each color by itself, unless you are sure

that harmony will result from a mixture or combination of colors. Pink

and white, blue and white, and red and white Hyacinths look well when

planted together, but a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never as

pleasing as the same colors would be separately, or where each color is

relieved by white.



The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal force.



We often see pleasing effects that have been secured by planting reds

and blues in rows, alternating with rows of white. This method keeps the

quarrelsome colors apart, and affords sufficient contrast to heighten

the general effect. Still, there is a formality about it which is not

entirely satisfactory to the person who believes that the flower is of

first importance, and the shape of the bed, or the arrangement of the

flowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary consideration.



Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon as possible after being

taken from the package in which they are sent out by the florist. If

exposed to the light and air for any length of time they part rapidly

with the moisture contained in their scales, and that means a loss of

vitality. If it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave them in

the package, or put them in some cool, dark place until you are ready to

use them.



As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus should be planted about five

inches deep, and about six inches apart.



The smaller bulbs should be put from three to four inches below the

surface and about the same distance apart.



In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of the depth desired, and

drop the bulb into it. Then cover, and press the soil down firmly.



Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover the bed with a coarse

litter from the barnyard, if obtainable, to a depth of eight or ten

inches. If this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will answer very

well, if packed down somewhat. Leaves make an excellent covering if one

can get enough of them. If they are used, four inches in depth of them

will be sufficient. Put evergreen boughs or wire netting over them to

prevent their being blown away.



I frequently receive letters from inexperienced bulb-growers, in which

the writers express considerable scepticism about the value of such a

covering as I have advised above, because, they say, it is not deep

enough to keep out the frost, therefore it might as well be dispensed

with. Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at. We expect the soil

about the bulbs to freeze. But such a covering as has been advised will

prevent the sun from thawing out the frost after it gets into the soil,

and this is exactly what we desire. For if the frost can be kept in,

after it has taken possession, there will not be that frequent

alternation between freezing and thawing which does the harm to the

plant. For it is not freezing, understand, that is responsible for the

mischief, but the _alternation of conditions_. These cause a rupture of

plant-cells, and that is what does the harm. Keep a comparatively tender

plant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be drawn out of it

gradually in spring, and it will survive a season of unusual cold. The

same plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left exposed to the

action of the elements, because of frequent and rapid changes between

heat and cold.



Whatever covering is given should be left on the beds as long as

possible in spring, because of the severely cold weather we frequently

have at the north after we think all danger is over. However, as soon as

the plants begin to make much growth, this covering will have to be

removed. If a cold night comes along after this has been done spread

blankets or carpeting over the beds. Keep them from resting on the

tender growth of the plants by driving pegs into the soil a short

distance apart, all over the bed. The young plants may not be killed by

quite a severe freeze, but they will be injured by it, and injury of any

kind should be guarded against at this season, if you want fine flowers.






Holland Hyacinths should receive first consideration, because they are

less likely to disappoint than any other hardy bulb. There are single

and double kinds, both desirable. Personally I prefer the single sorts,

as they are less prim and formal than the double varieties, whose

flowers are so thickly set along the stalk that individuality of bloom

is almost wholly lost sight of. They are, in this respect, like the

double Geraniums we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of bloom

resemble a ball of color more than anything else, at a little distance,

the suggestion of individual bloom being so slight that it seldom

receives consideration. However, they do good service where

color-effects are considered of more importance than anything else.

Single Hyacinths have their flowers more loosely arranged along the

stalk, and are therefore more graceful than the double varieties, and

their colors are quite as fine. These range from pure white through

pale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson, blue and charming yellows to

dark purple.



Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor culture at the north.



There are several quite distinct varieties of the Tulip. There is an

early sort, a medium one, a late one, and the Parrot, which is prized

more for its striking combinations of brilliant colors than for its

beauty of form or habit. We have single and double varieties in all the

classes, all coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate colors.

Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predominate, but the pure whites, the

pale rose-colors, and the rich purples are general favorites. Some of

the variegated varieties are exceedingly brilliant in their striking

color-combinations.



The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers we have. It deserves a

place very near, if not quite at, the head of the list of our best

spring-blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color than the large

double sorts, like _Horsfieldii_, and _Empress_, with their petals of

burnished gold. There are many other varieties equally as fine, but with

a little difference in the way of color--just enough to make one want to

have all of them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an honored member

of the family that should be found in every garden. When you see the

Dandelion's gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside you get a good

idea of the brilliant display a fine collection of Narcissus is capable

of making, for in richness of color these two flowers are almost

identical.



Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special mention are the Crocus, the

Snow Drop, the Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These should be

planted in groups, to be most effective, and set close together. They

must be used in large quantities to produce much of a show. They are

very cheap, and a good-sized collection can be had for a small amount of

money.



Those who have a liking for special colors will do well to make their

selections from the named varieties listed in the catalogues. You can

depend on getting just the color you want, if you order in this way. But

in no other way. Mixed collection will give you some of all colors, but

there is no way of telling "which is which" until they come into bloom.



But in mixed collections you will get just as fine bulbs and just as

fine colors as you will if you select from the list of named varieties.

Only--you won't know what you are getting. Named sorts will cost

considerable more than the mixtures.