STRAWBERRY

Fragaria





Probably the first thought will be that the Strawberry is a fruit, and

that the consideration of its treatment is out of place in a series of

articles on the culture of vegetables. The answer is that the plant

forms an essential feature in every good Kitchen Garden, and the general

routine of work has to be arranged with due regard to this crop, so that

we need make no apology for alluding to it here.



When to Plant.--The Strawberry is the most certain of all our hardy

fruits, and is much valued both for eating fresh as a summer luxury and

as a preserve for winter use. Although it deserves the best of

cultivation, its demands are few, for under the poorest system of

management it is often extremely prolific, and not unseldom the most

profitable crop in the garden. We have choice of seeds, divisions, and

runners in making a plantation of Strawberries. The universal way is the

best way, and it consists in planting rooted runners of named sorts in

an open sunny spot in well-prepared ground any time during spring or

autumn, when fresh and good runners are obtainable; but late planting is

undesirable, for when the plants have not time to establish themselves

before winter sets in many are lost. If, therefore, the planting cannot

be accomplished at the latest by the beginning of October, it is better

to defer the task until the spring. Plants put in at the latter time

should have the flower-stems removed, and will then yield a heavy crop

in the succeeding season.



Treatment of Soil.--The best soil for Strawberries is a rich, moist,

sandy loam, but a heavy soil will answer perfectly if it is well

prepared. The ground should be trenched and liberally enriched with

rotten manure placed between the top and bottom spits, where the plants

will reach it when they are most in need. In a new soil that is rather

stiff it will be advisable, when the trenching has been completed, to

put down the line and cut shallow trenches, which should be filled with

any rather fine kindly stuff that may be at hand, such as old hot-bed

soil, leaf-mould, or a mixture of material turned out of pots, with some

good decayed manure. In this the young plants will root freely and

quickly without becoming gross, for they should attain a certain degree

of vigour; but an excessive leaf growth may result in losses during

winter, and a small crop of fruit in the following year. Well-cultivated

soils need no such special preparation, but in any case a good digging

and a liberal manuring are absolutely necessary. And here it may be well

to state that after the plants have obtained a firm hold on the soil it

matters not how hard the ground becomes. The practice of some growers in

running a plough lightly between the rows either for a mulch, or to give

the plants the full benefit of rain, does not in the least degree upset

this conclusion, for this only creates a loose and friable surface, and

the operation is so managed that the soil near the roots remains

undisturbed. It may be accepted as a secret of successful Strawberry

culture that the bed should be firm and compact, and, in forcing, this

principle is so far recognised that the soil is positively rammed into

the pots.



Method of Planting.--If Strawberry plants come to hand somewhat dry,

unpack them quickly, and spread them in small lots in a cool shady

place, and sprinkle lightly with water to refresh them. A deluge of

water is not needed, and in fact will do harm, but enough to moisten

them will put them in a condition to begin growing as soon as they are

properly located. In planting, a little extra care in the disposition of

the roots in the soil will be well repaid, for plants merely thrust into

the ground cannot develop that robust root growth on which the future of

the crop largely depends. When preparing the positions it is an

excellent plan to build in the centre of each excavation a mound of

earth over which to spread the fibrous roots. Then return the soil and

firmly tread down. As a finish give each plant a copious watering. On no

account should the plant be deeply buried, but the crown should be left

just clear of the surface level. The distances in planting will have to

be determined by the relative vigour of the varieties and the nature of

the ground. As a rule the rows should be two feet apart, and the plants

eighteen inches in the rows, but some varieties require fully two and a

half feet between the rows. It is good practice to leave a three-feet

space between every two rows for necessary traffic. A modification of

the plan consists in planting a foot apart each way; and immediately the

first crop of fruit is off every alternate row is removed, and then

every alternate plant in each row is also taken out. This places the

remainder at two feet every way. The ground is then lightly forked and a

heavy coat of manure put on.



The general management comprises keeping down weeds, supplying water

abundantly in dry weather, especially when the berries are swelling, and

removing runners as fast as they appear, for to allow them to get ahead

is most injurious, and any serious neglect of this rule is likely to

ruin the plantation. The Strawberry plant makes no proper return on a

dry lumpy soil. Large plantations that cannot be watered must be aided

in the height of the season by covering the ground with any light

material which will prevent evaporation. As to obtaining runners, that

is easy enough, but there is a good way and a bad way. To allow them to

spread and root promiscuously is the bad way; it injures the plants,

makes the bed disorderly, and does not produce good runners. At the time

when runners begin to push, dig and manure the surrounding spaces, and

allow a certain number of runners to come out from each side of the

rows. As they approach maturity and are disposed to make roots, lay

tiles or stones upon the runners near to the young plants to favour the

process, but a neater way will be to peg them down. Or they may be fixed

by short pegs in small pots, filled with light rich earth and plunged in

the soil.



To keep the crop clean many plans are adopted, and the plant probably

takes its name from the old custom of covering the ground with straw for

the purpose. The cultivator must be left to his own devices, because of

the difficulty in many places of obtaining suitable material. But we

must warn the beginner in Strawberry culture against grass mowings as

more or less objectionable. They sometimes answer perfectly, and at

other times they encourage slugs and snails to spoil the crop, and if

partially rotted by wet weather communicate to the fruit a bad flavour.

There is a very simple means of feeding the crop and making a clean bed

for the fruit. It consists in putting on a good coat of long, strong

manure in February, and in doing this it is no great harm if the plants

are in some degree covered. They will soon push up and show themselves,

and by the time the fruit appears the straw will be washed clean, and

the crop being thus aided will be a great one, weather permitting. As

regards cutting off the leaves, we advise the removal of old large

leaves as soon as the crop is gathered. But this should be done with a

knife; to use a scythe amongst Strawberries is to ruin the plantation.

The object of removing old leaves is to admit light and air to the young

leaves, for on the free growth of these the formation of good crowns for

the next year's use depends. By encouraging the young leaves to grow,

root action is promoted, and the embryo buds are formed that will, in

the next summer, develop into Strawberries.



Some gardeners recommend the removal of the Strawberry plantation every

three years. It is a better plan to make a small plantation annually,

and at the same time destroy an old plantation that has served its turn.

But we are bound to say that Strawberry plantations, well made and well

kept, will often last and prove profitable for six or even more years.

But this will never be the case where there is a stint of manure or

water, or where the runners are allowed to run in their own way to make

a Strawberry mat and a jam of the wrong sort. The Strawberry fancier

does not wish to keep a plantation any great length of time, and he must

plant annually to taste the new sorts. This to many people is one of the

chief delights of the garden, and it certainly has its attractions.



Forced Strawberries.--The high price realised on the market for the

earliest supply of forced Strawberries is a sufficient proof that

society is prepared to pay handsomely for this refreshing luxury. As the

season advances and competition becomes keen the figure rapidly

declines, but 'Strawberries at a guinea an ounce' has more than once

appeared as a sensational head-line in the daily press.



The fruiting of Strawberries in pots is part of the annual routine of

nearly all large establishments, but even with the most perfect

appliances it must be admitted that to produce berries which win

appreciation for their size, colour, and flavour demands both skill and

patience, especially patience.



Strong well-rooted plants are essential to success, and no trouble

should be spared to secure them from robust free-fruiting stocks. The

earliest runners must either be layered on square pieces of mellow turf

or over thumb pots filled with a good rich compost. When the runners are

fairly rooted in the layers of turf or the thumb pots they should be

transferred to pots of the fruiting size. No. 32 is generally used for

the purpose. After the pots have been crocked some growers add a layer

of half-inch bones, which aid the plants and insure free drainage. The

most satisfactory soil is a rich fibrous loam, with the addition of

one-fourth of well-rotted manure and a small proportion of sand, and the

compost must be well firmed into the pots with the ramming stick.



The best place to keep the plants is an open airy situation, easily

accessible, where the pots can stand on a bed of ashes. On the approach

of frost they can be transferred to a cold frame, keeping them close to

the glass, or they may be plunged in ashes in some sheltered position.



When the time arrives for forcing, it is usual to commence by plunging

the pots in a bed of warm leaves or in a mild half-spent hot-bed.

Immediately the plants show sign of blooming they must be shifted to

warmer quarters. A shelf at the back of an early vinery or Peach-house,

quite near the glass, is a suitable position. The temperature at

starting should be 55 deg. Fahr., rising gradually to 60 deg. by the time the

leafage is thoroughly developed.



The appearance of the flower trusses is a critical period. Liquid manure

should then be given freely, and at the same time the plants must have

abundance of light and a warm dry atmosphere. The blossoms need to be

artificially fertilised with a camel's-hair pencil, choosing midday as

the best time for this operation.



When the crop has set it must be thinned to about nine berries on each

plant, and in due time the fruits should have the support of forked

sticks. Care will be necessary to prevent injury to the stalks, or the

flow of sap to the berries may be arrested. Syringe twice a day in dry

weather; and on the first show of colour discontinue the manure-water

and use pure soft water only. At this stage a night temperature of 65 deg.

must be maintained, giving all the air and light possible.



More failures in the pot culture of Strawberries are attributable to

neglect in watering than to any other cause. The soil must never be

allowed to become dry. Should the leaves once droop they seldom recover.

At least twice a day the plants will need attention, and it is important

that the water should be of the same temperature as the atmosphere.

Always leave the cans full in readiness for the next visit.



Alpine Strawberries are very largely grown in France, probably more so

than the large-fruited varieties which are popular in this country. The

best method is to sow the seeds in January, in pans filled with a light

rich compost and placed in a gentle heat. Prick out the plants on to a

bed of light soil in a frame, or on a nearly exhausted hot-bed, whence

they should be taken to the open ground. From these sowings fine fruits

may usually be gathered in the following September. Seeds may also be

sown outdoors in spring or in September in shallow drills, six inches

apart, on a bed of light soil. Transplant in due course for fruiting in

the succeeding Strawberry season. When a full crop has been gathered the

plants should be destroyed, a succession being kept up by sowing

annually. By slowly growing the plants from spring-sown seeds and

potting in autumn, it is not a difficult matter to have Alpines in fruit

under glass at Christmas.