Second Week

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.



Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in the

middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the foliage; and

never to be watered overhead.



Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have finished

their growth.



Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very large

heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the flowers are

formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of one-half rich loam,

one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and supplied with as much

liquid manure and moist heat as possible.



Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air

and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages with

clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and evening

overhead.



Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they will

flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or rotten dung.

They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be subjected to a

moist heat of not less than 75 deg..



Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When

watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball

is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is again

completely dry.



Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and

liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly sticked,

so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in presenting a

large mass of flowers to the eye at once.



Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as

advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down. After

the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the most

forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out, and repot

into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and placing them in

a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again; after which freely

expose them to the weather until heavy rains in autumn, or the approach

of frost, renders it necessary to house them for the winter.





STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.



Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to remove

filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in standing in

corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange frequently, as

it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the plants and a pleasing

variety in the house.





FORCING-HOUSES.



Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is advisable to

keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat. Strike cuttings of

choice sorts for winter bearing.



Melons.--The same as advised for Cucumbers, as they both delight in

plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give them

good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up early

on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, and the

plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never allow any to

fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears, apply lime to the

parts affected. Old plants cut back should be stimulated to grow freely.



Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those

from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal

waterings at the roots and by syringings.



Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90 deg. to 95 deg. by day and from

70 deg. to 75 deg. by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing

plants and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the

pots.



Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and day as

soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully ripened,

in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at a good heat.

Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up the bunches, and

maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty of air, but do not

syringe the bunches.