Plums

Almost any soil will grow this useful fruit. Young trees maybe planted at any time, when the ground is friable, from November to
March, but the earlier it is done the better. The situation should be
somewhat sheltered. In exposed positions protection may be afforded
by a row of damson trees. Many varieties are suitable for growing on
walls or sheds, where they are trained into fans, as cordons, and
other decorative designs; but it must not be overlooked that until the
trees are well established a great deal of fruit is necessarily lost
by the severe pruning and disbudding which is required to bring the
tree into shape. A pyramid-shaped tree is useful, and is easily
grown by training one straight, central shoot, which must be stopped
occasionally so that fresh side branches may be thrown out, which of
course must be kept at the desired length. A bush tree about 7 ft. in
height is undoubtedly the best form of growth, and needs but a minimum
amount of attention. In pruning wall trees the main object is to get
the side-shoots equally balanced, and to prevent the growth advancing
in the centre. The bush form merely require the removal of any dead
wood and of cross-growing branches. This should be done late in the
summer or in the autumn. The trees are frequently attacked by a small
moth, known as the Plum Fortrix, which eats its way into the fruit
and causes it to fall. In this case the fallen unripe fruit should be
gathered up and burned, and the trees washed in winter with caustic
potash and soda. For growing on walls the following kinds may be
recommended: Diamond, White Magnum Bonum, Pond's Seedling, and Belle
de Louvain for cooking; and Kirke, Coe's Golden Drop, and Jefferson
for dessert. For pyramids and bushes, Victoria, Early Prolific, Prince
Engelbert, Sultan, and Belgian Purple are good sorts. In orchards
Plums should stand 20 ft. apart.