PETUNIA

Half-hardy perennial



The Petunia affords another example of the immense strides accomplished

in the art of seed-saving. Formerly the colours were few, and the

blossoms comparatively insignificant. Now the single strains produce

large flowers, beautiful in form, including self colours and others

which are striped, blotched, and veined, in almost endless diversity.

Some are plain-edged, others elegantly fringed. The double varieties

also come so nearly true to their types that there is little necessity

for keeping a stock through the winter. Plants raised from seed of the

large-flowered strain embrace a wide range of resplendent colours, and

the doubles are perfect rosettes, exquisitely finished in form and

marking.



The only way of obtaining double seedlings is to save seed from the

finest single blooms fertilised with pollen of good double flowers.

Plants raised from such seed may be relied on to produce a fair

proportion of double flowers of great beauty, and those which come

single will be of the large-flowered type.



The dwarf varieties attain the height of five to eight inches only, and

make admirable edging and bedding plants. The taller strains range from

one to two feet, and are handsome subjects for border and shrubbery

work. Both dwarf and tall sections are sufficiently brilliant and

free-flowering to produce a beautiful display as pot plants in the

greenhouse and conservatory.



For indoor decoration, the third week in January will be early enough to

commence operations. Two parts of leaf-mould, one of loam, and one of

sharp sand, make an excellent soil for them. Fill the pots or seed-pans

within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil firmly down. Sow

thinly on an even surface, and cover the seed with almost pure sand.

Keep the pots or pans uniformly moist with a fine rose and a light hand,

and in a temperature of about 60 deg.. Greater heat will render the

seedlings weak and straggling. From this condition it will take some

skill and much time to redeem them; indeed, they may not produce a good

display of flowers until the season is well-nigh over. Just as the seed

is germinating is a critical time for Petunias, and a little extra

watchfulness then will be fully repaid.



In February the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that

shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and freedom from

draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick off by the end

of that month. Put the plants into seed-pans about an inch apart, so

that the first leaves just touch the soil, still using a light compost.



In April they should be ready for transferring to small 60-pots.

Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until they reach

the 48-or even the 32-size. After re-potting place the plants in a

sheltered part of the house or frame, where shade can, if necessary, be

given until the roots are established. Frequent sprinklings of water,

and a temperature of 60 deg. or 65 deg., will give them a vigorous start. The

lights ought to be put down in good time in the evening, but this must

be done with judgment, or the plants will lose their healthy colour and

assume a yellowish tinge. Insufficient drainage has a precisely similar

effect. In about ten days air may be given more freely, and then no

suitable opportunity of exposure should be lost.



In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable; but

as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather is

warm and settled, the sowing need not be made until the end of February

or the beginning of March. And for bedding there is no occasion to put

the plants into larger pots than the 60-size. It will be necessary to

give these seedlings shade in their young state, after they have been

pricked off or potted.



The beds or borders intended for Petunias will be better without recent

manure, for this tends to the excessive production of foliage and defers

the flowering until late in the season. Do not be tempted by the first

sunny day to put them out, but wait for settled weather. A cutting east

wind, such as we sometimes have in May, will ruin them irretrievably.

Each plant of the tall class will occupy a space of two feet, and the

dwarfs may be one foot apart.



In potting Petunias, those which are weakly among the singles will

probably produce the most valued colours, and from seed sown for doubles

it may be accepted as a rule that from the feebler seedlings the finest

rosette-shaped flowers may be expected.



All Petunias are impatient of being pot-bound, and this applies

especially to the double varieties. They will, if treated generously, do

ample justice to the 8-or even the 10-inch size. The growth should not

be hurried at any stage, and if the foliage has a dark, healthy, green

colour, free from blight, there will be magnificent flowers four or five

inches across. The final shift should be into a sound compost,

consisting, if possible, of good loam and leaf-mould in equal parts,

with sufficient sand added to insure drainage. About a fortnight later

commence giving weak manure water once a week instead of the ordinary

watering, and as the buds appear it may be increased in strength, and be

administered twice a week until the flowers expand.



Petunias are accommodating in their growth, and may be trained into

various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least

objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy to

fanciful shapes in plants, no matter what they may be. It is a necessity

of our artificial conditions of culture that many of them should be

trained and tied to produce shapely specimens, but the more nearly the

gardener's art approaches Nature, the greater pleasure we derive from

his labours.