MARCH

The first duty is to ascertain that there are no arrears to make good or

failures-to replace. If any sowing has gone wrong, do not waste time by

repining over it, but sow again. Growing flowers under artificial

conditions is a prolonged struggle with Nature, in which the most

experienced and skilful gardener need not be ashamed of an occasional

failure. But the cause of the failure should, if possible, be

ascertained for future guidance. We say if possible, because the secret

cannot always be discovered. There may have been every apparent

condition of success, and yet, for some inexplicable reason, there has

been disappointment. As a rule, however, the cause will be found by the

man who is determined to make every failure the stepping-stone to future

success.



The lengthening days and the growing power of the sun demand increased

vigilance and activity. Danger of frost remains, and, worse still, there

may come the withering influence of the north-east wind, which scorches

delicate seedlings as with a breath of fire.



Annuals, Hardy, may be sown in the open from February to May. Perhaps

a list of the principal flowers comprised under this denomination may

aid the memory. Several of the following are not strictly hardy, but

for practical ends they may be so regarded.



Abronia

Acroclinium

Alyssum

Asperula

Bartonia

Cacalia

Calandrinia

Calendula

Candytuft

Centranthus

Chrysanthemum,

annual

Clarkia

Collinsia

Collomia

Convolvulus minor

Coreopsis

Cornflower

Dimorphotheca

Erysimum

Eschscholtzia

Eutoca

Gilia

Godetia

Gypsophila

Hawkweed

Helichrysum

Hibiscus

Jacobea

Kaulfussia

Larkspur

Lavatera

Layia

Leptosiphon

Leptosyne

Limnanthes

Linaria

Linum

Love-lies-bleeding

Lupinus

Malope

Marigold

Mathiola

Mignonette

Nasturtium

Nemophila

Nigella

Phacelia

Platystemon

Poppy

Prince's Feather

Rudbeckia

Salpiglossis

Sanvitalia

Saponaria

Silene

Sunflower

Swan River Daisy

Sweet Pea

Sweet Sultan

Venus' Looking-glass

Venus' Navel-wort

Virginian Stock

Viscaria

Whitlavia

Xeranthemum



Hardy annuals are worth better treatment than they sometimes receive.

They may be sown at once where they are intended to bloom, and for the

varieties preceded by an asterisk this method is a necessity, because

they do not well bear transplanting. In every case sow thinly, and

afterwards thin boldly, for many of the flowers named will occupy a

diameter of one or even two feet if the soil is in a condition to do

them justice. Give the ground a deep digging and incorporate plenty of

manure, except where Nasturtium is to be sown. A rather poor soil is

necessary for this annual, or the flowers will be hidden by excessive

foliage.



Abutilon.--There is yet time to raise plants for blooming in the

current year. The seedlings must be potted on regularly to render them

robust and free-flowering.



Aster.--Only those who are closely acquainted with the modern

development of this handsome flower can have any conception of its

varied forms and colours. There are dwarf, medium, and tall varieties

in almost endless diversity, and nearly all of them will be a credit to

any garden if well grown. Too often, however, flowers are seen which are

a mere caricature of what Asters may become in the hands of men who

understand their requirements. To grow them to perfection the ground

should be trenched in the previous autumn, where the soil is deep enough

to justify the operation. If not, the digging must be deep, and plenty

of decayed manure should be worked in. Leave the ground roughly exposed

to the disintegrating effects of winter frosts; and in spring it should

be lightly forked over once or twice to produce a friable condition, in

which the roots will ramify freely and go down to the buried manure for

stimulating food. If by such means stiff land can be made mellow, it

will grow Asters of magnificent size and colour.



In sowing it is not wise to rely on a single effort. We advise at least

two sowings; and three are better, even if only a few plants are wanted.

This diminishes the risk of failure and prolongs the flowering season.

Prepare a compost of leaf-mould and loam, mixed with sharp sand to

insure drainage. Towards the end of the month sow in pots or in

seed-pans on an even surface; and we lay stress on a thin sowing, to

avoid the danger of the seedlings damping off. Barely cover the seed

with finely sifted soil, and place sheets of glass on the pans or pots

to check rapid evaporation. If water must be given, immerse the pots for

a sufficient time, instead of using the water-can. A cool greenhouse,

vinery, or a half-spent hotbed is a good position for the pans, and a

range of temperature from 55 deg. to 65 deg. should be regarded as the outside

limits of variation.



Auricula.--Seed may still be sown; indeed, April will not be too late.

Partially submerging the pans when water is needed saves many seeds from

being washed out and wasted.



Balsam.--- Although this flower comes from a tropical climate, it is

not very tender; a gentle hot-bed is quite sufficient to bring up the

seed. Two or three sowings are advisable to secure a succession of

bloom, and for the first of them the middle of this month is the proper

time. It is important that the soil for this plant should be light,

rich, and very sweet. When the seedlings show their first rough leaves,

lose no time in pricking them off, and they should afterwards be potted

early enough to promote a dwarf habit.



Calceolaria.--- Plants from last year's sowing will begin to move, and

should be shifted into their final pots before the buds show. The

eight-inch size ought to contain very fine specimens. The compost for

them should be prepared with care several days before use. Put the

plants in firmly, and place them in a light airy greenhouse. As soon as

the pots are filled with roots an occasional dose of manure water will

be beneficial until the flowers begin to show colour, when pure soft

water alone will be required. Tie out the plants some time before the

buds attain full size.



Clerodendron fallax.--A charming stove plant, producing large heads of

bright scarlet flowers suitable for greenhouse decoration. From seed

sown in March or April there should be a show of bloom in August or

September following.



Coleus is strictly a stove perennial. But our short winter days do not

maintain a rich colour, and it will in almost every instance give more

satisfaction if treated as an annual, enjoying the beautiful and varied

foliage during summer and autumn, and consigning the plants to the

waste-heap as wintry days draw near. We do not advise the sowing of seed

earlier than March, because a considerable amount of daylight is

necessary to the development of rich tints and diversified markings in

the foliage. The essentials for raising plants from seed are good

drainage, a temperature which does not fall below 65 deg., the careful

employment of water, and the early transfer of the seedlings. The green

plants may be thrown away immediately they reveal their character, but

those which show delicate tints in the small leaves will abundantly

compensate for all the care bestowed upon them.



Dianthus.--Put the seedlings into single pots, and harden in readiness

for transplanting to the open in May or June.



Dimorphotheca.--This valuable half-hardy annual, a native of South

Africa, known also as the Star of the Veldt, may be flowered within six

weeks from time of sowing. Plants may be raised by starting seed this

month or in April, in pans of light soil given the protection of a

frame. Transplant in May, in well-drained soil, choosing a warm sunny

spot. In the open, seed may safely be sown in May or June. Plants potted

on from the early sowing will make a most attractive show in the

conservatory, or seed may be sown in pots and the seedlings thinned to

three or four in each.



Gaillardia.--To secure a supply of plants for the open ground in May,

seed of all the varieties may be sown during this month. Prick off early

and keep them dwarf.



Geum.--From seed sown this month or in April, the popular double

variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, may be brought into flower in the first year.

The seedlings should be pricked off into boxes and gradually hardened

for putting out in May or June.



Gladiolus.--This is one of the most stately and beautiful flowers

grown in our gardens. Some of the varieties are strikingly brilliant;

others are exceedingly delicate in tint and refined in their markings.

The culture may be of the most primitive kind, or it may become one of

the fine arts of horticulture. Simply put into the ground and left to

fight their own battle, the corms sometimes produce splendid spikes of

flower, although not so imposing as better culture might have made them.

Under skilful care the flowers are magnificent in size and colour.



The main work of preparing the ground should be done in autumn. Now it

is only necessary to give the soil two or three light forkings, and

those not deep enough to bring the buried manure to the surface. This

frequent stirring is beneficial in itself, and it promotes the

destruction of the foes which prey upon Gladiolus roots. Small Potatoes,

roughly hollowed out, or pieces of Carrot, may be used as traps for

wireworm and other vermin. Planting is sometimes done at the end of this

month, but as a rule it is better to wait until the beginning of April.



Gloxinia.--There is yet time to secure a brilliant summer display from

seed. Bulbs which have been stored through the winter need attention.

Where these flowers are wanted early, and there is plenty of room, a

commencement will probably be made in February; but in the greater

number of gardens March is soon enough. Assuming the bulbs to be sound,

they should be potted in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Those which

start first must be re-potted for a forward supply. While growing,

manure water twice a week will help to produce fine flowers, intense in

colour; but when the flowers open, the liquid manure must be abandoned,

and pure soft water be given as often as necessary, for Gloxinias cannot

endure drought. Shading is an important matter from the commencement,

and particularly during the flowering period.



Hollyhock seedlings will be ready for putting into thumb pots.

Directly they are established, begin to prepare them for planting out in

May.



Impatiens.--Some growers find a little difficulty in raising this

elegant flower from seed. Probably it arises from sowing too early.

Where there is a command of sufficient heat no trouble should be

experienced in March, and it is essential to sow very thinly for two

reasons. Crowded seedlings are liable to damp off, particularly in dull,

moist weather, and they are so fragile that it is well-nigh impossible

to transfer them from the seed-pots until they are about an inch high.



Lavatera.--As the Mallows do not transplant well it is desirable to

sow in the flowering positions. Good ground is necessary to insure fine

specimens, and ample space must be allowed for the plants to develop.

The seed may be sown from March to May.



Lobelia.--The perennial varieties make splendid border plants, and are

easily grown from seed. Sow during February or March, in moderate heat,

and in due time transfer to a deep rich loam. Their dark metallic

foliage and brilliant flowers are most conspicuous, and admirably fit

them for the back row of a ribbon border, or for groups in the mixed

border.



Lupinus.--Seed of the annual varieties may be put in from March to

May, and it is necessary to sow where required for flowering, as

transplanting is not satisfactory. The perennial Lupines may also be

flowered as annuals by sowing seed in March or April.



Marigold.--Both the African and French varieties are of importance

late in the season, for they continue to bloom until cut down by frost.

The former reaches the height of from eighteen to thirty inches, and the

colour is limited to yellow in several shades, from pale lemon to deep

orange. The latter is more varied in habit as well as in colour, and the

Miniatures make excellent bedding plants. In hot dry seasons Marigolds

entirely eclipse Calceolarias, because they can well endure drought and

a short supply of food; whereas the Shrubby Calceolaria does not thrive

under such conditions. All the varieties of Tagetes may be sown now on a

moderate heat, and they should be pricked off into pans or boxes in

readiness for transferring to the open ground in May.



Marvel of Peru.--The treatment prescribed for Balsam will suit this

plant. In the first year it will grow to a considerable size, but will

not, as a rule, attain to its full dimensions until the second season.

It is a half-hardy perennial, and when saved through the winter will

need protection from frost.



Mignonette finds a welcome in every English garden; and to add to its

attractiveness there are now yellow, red, and white varieties, in

addition to such forms as dwarf, pyramidal, and spiral. Mignonette can

be grown without the least difficulty; indeed, it will reproduce itself

from seed shed in the previous year. Nevertheless, it is true that in

the majority of gardens justice is seldom done to this flower, for the

simple reason that there is not sufficient faith in its capabilities.

Each plant will cover a space of at least one foot, and we have seen

specimens a yard across, bristling with flower-spikes which are

delightfully fragrant. The soil for it should be made firm, just as an

Onion bed is treated. Except for this one point, the culture of a hardy

annual is all that is necessary. Mignonette does not transplant

successfully, but otherwise it is very accommodating. The seedlings are

frequently taken off by fly as fast as they appear above ground. Soot

and wood-ashes applied in good time are the best preventives; but a

second sowing may be necessary, and it should be made immediately the

loss is discovered.



Nemesia.--For the earliest display of this beautiful annual the first

sowing should be made in pots under glass during this month. In the open

border seed may be sown in both May and June. Occasionally a little

difficulty is experienced in raising plants under artificial conditions,

but those who sow in beds or borders from the same packet of seed during

the months named, will find that the culture is quite easy.



Pentstemon.--The treatment recommended for the perennial section of

Lobelias will exactly suit this flower.



Phlox Drummondii.--There is still time to sow. Established seedlings

should be gradually hardened by free access of air, until they are ready

for the open ground.



Phlox, Perennial, may be raised from seed sown in shallow boxes in the

early part of this month, and placed in moderate heat. Transplant the

seedlings when ready, gradually harden, and plant out in rich soil one

foot apart, or put them into vacant places in the shrubbery. Aid with

water if necessary.



Poppy.--The annual varieties do not well bear transplanting,

especially from light soils, and therefore, as a rule, it is advisable

to sow where the plants are intended to bloom. They make conspicuous

lines and clumps among shrubs; and this is especially the case with the

huge flowers of the double class. Sow in March and April, and commence

thinning the seedlings while they are small. They should ultimately be

left about one foot apart. The perennial Poppies may also be flowered as

annuals if sown in this month and transferred to open quarters when

large enough.



Schizanthus.--Elegant half-hardy annuals, which can be grown as

specimens for the conservatory, or in quantity for open borders. Sow in

gentle heat, and pot on the seedlings.



Solanum.--For a succession of the varieties which are grown for their

berries, sow again in heat, and make a sowing of the ornamental-foliaged

kinds for sub-tropical gardening. The latter are rather more tender,

and need a somewhat higher temperature than the former. They must all

have liberal culture to bring out their fine qualities.



Statice.--The hardy annual varieties of Sea Lavender may be sown

during March or April, and the best results are obtained by starting the

seed in pans and planting out when the seedlings are far enough advanced

in size. Seed of the hardy perennial kinds should be sown from April to

July on light soil, and transplanted later on to flowering quarters.



Stock, Ten-week.--The increasing favour shown for Annual Stocks is in

part no doubt attributable to the growing appreciation manifested for

all kinds of flowers. But it is traceable in a still greater measure to

the augmented purity, brilliance, and variety in colour of modern

Ten-week Stocks, as well as to the enhanced reliability of seed in

producing double flowers. We need say nothing of its perfume, for this

is a quality which the most unobservant can scarcely fail to notice.



Although the Ten-week Stock is half-hardy, it must not receive the

treatment of a tender annual; indeed, one of the most important points

in growing it is to avoid any excess of artificial heat. A little

assistance at the commencement it must have; but the aim should be to

impart a hardy constitution from the moment the seedlings appear. We are

not advocating reckless exposure to chill blasts, but the necessity of

giving air freely whenever there may be a fair opportunity. The best of

seed-beds can be made in pans or shallow boxes filled with sweet, sandy

soil. In these sow thinly, so that the young plants may have abundant

room. Even a little apparent wastefulness of space will be repaid by

stout and vigorous growth. From the middle to the end of the month is a

suitable time for sowing.



Sweet Pea.--This flower is so much in demand for decorative purposes

that a prolonged display should be secured by successive sowings,

commencing in this month and continuing until May, or even to June,

where the soil and circumstances are specially favourable. The value of

groups of Sweet Peas in borders and for enlivening shrubberies is now

thoroughly appreciated, and it is not uncommon to see fine clumps among

dwarf fruit trees.



Tigridia, or Ferraria.--Finer flowers are generally obtained from the

open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three or

four inches deep in March or April. Sandy loam and peat suit them

admirably. On a dry border these bulbs will pass the winter safely, but

in wet land it will be perilous to leave them out.



Verbena.--It is possible to raise Verbenas in the open from seed sown

in drills on light soil, but the attempt is a little hazardous. There

is, however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame.

The plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle.

The flowering from this sowing will be rather late, but not too late for

a good show of bloom.



Zinnia.--The double varieties are now grown almost to the exclusion of

single flowers, and the former are so incomparably superior, that they

are judged by the severe rules of the florist. With this plant it is

useless to start too early. Towards the end of the month a commencement

will be made by experienced growers, but the comparative novice will be

wise to wait until the beginning of April. Sow in pots filled with a

compost of leaf-mould, loam, and sand, and be quite sure there is

effectual drainage. Plunge the pots in a temperature of about 60 deg..