CELERY

Apium graveolens



Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome

and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of cultivation,

and care should be taken not to push the growth too far, for the

gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally speaking, the

quality of size only, being tough and tasteless. Nevertheless, the sorts

that are held in high favour by growers of prize Celery are good in

themselves when grown to a moderate size; it is the forcing system alone

that deprives them of flavour. Yet another precaution may be needful to

prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery will sometimes 'bolt' or run

up to flower, in which case it is worthless. This may be the fault of

the cultivator more than of the seed or the weather, for a check in many

cases hastens the flowering of plants, and it is not unusual for Celery

to receive a check through mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be

impossible to plant out when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest

of growth at a most important stage may result in a disposition to

flower the first year, instead of waiting for the second. It should be

understood, therefore, that early sowing necessitates early planting,

and the cultivator should see his way clearly from the commencement.



Sowing and Transplanting.--The 1st of March is early enough for a

first sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild

hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in

boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60 deg.. When forward

enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a

temperature of 60 deg. to 65 deg., keep liberally moist, and give air, at first

with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises

until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be

hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of

one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need

not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be

at hand to give shelter when needful. If well grown in trenches, this

first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early.



For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and

White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March,

and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the

open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at

six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same

way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this

sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief

point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as

soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession

from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size.



The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in an

open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats or

old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two or

three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard

ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the

warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the

coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should

be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and

the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are

kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture.



The planting out is an important matter, and each lot will require

separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan.

Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to

make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these

ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us

in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in

trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To

overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like

Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any

admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at

bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and should

run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with a

trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows,

and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold

soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or three

inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given

ungrudgingly, but earthing up should not commence until the plant has

made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops

the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to seven

weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put out in

the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but as the

season advances the trenches must be less deep.



Earthing up is often performed in a rough way, as though the plant

were made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first

earthing should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow

the heart of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little

ring of light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving

the whole plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the

earthing must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the

earth over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a

plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring the

earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack up the

earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very close;

also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and do not

earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be necessary

repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and about a week

from this finish the operation.



The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed

so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a

proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the

object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in

darkness, but otherwise free from restraint.



The Bed System answers particularly well for producing a large supply

of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation is

also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served when

boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet wide and

ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in a slope

round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be planted

with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need to be

heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system. Space the

plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be preferred,

and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows. Water must be

given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to be several times

chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and watering repeated until

the plants have made a start. An easy means of blanching is by the use

of stiff paper collars as described below; another simple method is to

place mats over the tops of the plants when nearly full grown. The bed

system is not only economical, but convenient for sheltering in winter,

and should have the attention of gardeners who are expected to supply

abundance of Celery throughout the winter and spring, for in such cases

a large sample is not required, but quality and continuance are of

importance.



It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the winter,

and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil, and on

the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants can be

preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not so

readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system

allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at

command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be grown,

but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by winter

damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and earth up

from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in winter.

Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending the tops

on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the trickling of water

into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or snow.



Celery for Exhibition.--From the opening paragraph it will be gathered

that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very

generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of

varieties--and only the finest strains should be considered--four points

are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be

liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or

suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at

frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by

slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of blanching

will need great care and discretion. These points have already been

dealt with at some length. But on the question of blanching it may be

well to add that in order to insure perfect specimens, free from

blemish, artificial means of some kind must be adopted in place of

earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips of good quality brown

paper will prove both simple and effectual. These strips need not exceed

a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being added as growth

develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine, making due allowance

for expansion of the plant, and when in position carefully draw the soil

towards the base.



The numerous enemies of Celery, such as slugs, snails, the

mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop

where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be

indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with

directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to

operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the

mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on

carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will

suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the leaves

with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from attack. Where

the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear blistered, and the

maggot within must be crushed by pinching the blister between the thumb

and finger. Leaves that are much blistered should be removed and burned,

but to rob the plants of many leaves will seriously reduce the vigour of

growth.



Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is much prized on the Continent

as a cooked vegetable, and as a salad. In ordinary Celery the stem forms

a mere basis to the leaves, but in Celeriac it is developed into a knob

weighing from one to five pounds, and the root is more easily preserved

than Celery. When cooked in the same manner as Sea Kale, Celery is well

known as a delicacy at English tables, and the cooked Celeriac ranks in

importance with it, though it affords quite a different dish. The stem

or axis of the plant is used, and not the stalks. To grow fine Celeriac

a long season is requisite; and therefore it is advisable to sow the

seed in a gentle heat early in March, and afterwards prick out and treat

as Celery; but after the first stage the treatment is altogether

different. For the plantation a light and rich soil is required, and

where the staple is heavy, a small bed can easily be prepared by

spreading six inches depth of any sandy soil over the surface. The

plants must be put out on the level a foot and a half apart each way,

and be planted as shallow as possible. Before planting, trim carefully

to remove lateral shoots that might divide the stems, and after planting

water freely. The cultivation will consist in keeping the crop clean,

and frequently drawing the soil away from the plants, for the more they

stand out of the ground the better, provided they are not distressed.

They must never stand still for want of water, or the roots will not

attain to a proper size. The lateral shoots and fibres must be removed

to keep the roots intact, but not to such an extent as to arrest

progress. When a good growth has been made, and the season is declining,

cover the bulbs or stems with a thin coat of fine soil, and in the

first week of October lift a portion of the crop and store it in sand,

all the leaves being first removed, except those in the centre, which

must remain, or the roots may waste their energies in producing another

set. The portion of the crop left in the ground will need protection

from frost, and this can be accomplished by earthing them over with soil

taken from between the rows.



Celeriac is cooked in the same manner as Beet, and requires about the

same length of time. The stems, bulbs, or roots (for the knobs, which

are true stems, are known by various names) are trimmed, washed, and put

into boiling water without salt or any flavouring, and kept boiling

until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with

white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold.