ASTER

Callistephus sinensis. Half-hardy annual



In high summer so many flowers are available that no difficulty arises

in making a varied display. The real trouble is in discarding,

especially for a limited area. But when summer begins to merge into

autumn the choice is not so extensive, and among the annuals which then

adorn the garden Asters are indispensable. This superb flower has been

developed into many forms, and each class affords a wide range of

magnificent colours. Yet it must be admitted that in the majority of

gardens Asters are seldom grown in sufficient numbers, and it is not

unusual to find the flowers small in size and poor in colour. In many

cases we believe the reason to be that the culture of Asters is often

commenced too late. Preparations should therefore be made in good time,

and apart from providing the requisite number of plants for filling beds

and borders, and for supplying cut blooms, others should be raised for

flowering in pots. For indoor decoration full use is rarely ever made of

Asters, although the colours include many delightful shades which may

be employed with most telling effect.



To secure a long-continued display of bloom there must be several

sowings, and the earliest will need the aid of artificial heat. One

secret of successful culture is to give no check to the plant from its

first appearance until the time of flowering; and a suitable bed must be

prepared, whether the seed be sown on the spot or plants are transferred

from other quarters.



Asters do not readily accommodate themselves to violent alternations of

heat and cold, particularly in the early stage of growth, and therefore

the most sheltered position in the garden should be chosen for them; but

avoid a hedge or shrubbery, where strong growing trees rob the soil of

its virtue. Begin the preparation of beds during the previous autumn by

deep digging, and incorporate a liberal dressing of well-rotted manure

as the work proceeds. On light and shallow soils it will do more harm

than good to bring the raw subsoil to the surface, but the subsoil may

with advantage be stirred and loosened by the fork, and if a little

loamy clay can be worked into it the land will be permanently benefited.



A very stiff soil will, however, present greater difficulties; but if by

free working it can be made sufficiently friable, Asters will revel in

it, and produce flowers of a size and colour that will reward the

cultivator for all his trouble. Throw the ground up roughly in October.

The more it is exposed to the action of wind, snow and frost, the more

thoroughly will the winter disintegrate its particles and render it

fertile. Early in spring give another digging, and then work in a good

supply of decayed manure, together with grit, charcoal, wood ashes, or

other material that will help to render the soil rich and free. Aim at

inducing the roots to go down deep for supplies--there will then be a

cool moist bottom even in dry weather, and these conditions will do much

toward the production of fine stocky plants capable of carrying an

imposing display of flowers.



For sowings from the end of March to the middle of April prepare a

compost consisting principally of decayed leaf-mould, with sufficient

loam to render it firm, and sharp sand to secure drainage. Either pots

or seed-pans may be used. Place these in a cool greenhouse, or in a

Cucumber or Melon pit, or even on a half-spent hot-bed. Sow thinly; a

thick sowing is very likely to damp off. Just hide the seed with finely

sifted soil, and place sheets of glass at the top to prevent rapid

evaporation. Give no water unless the soil becomes decidedly dry, and

then it is better to immerse the pot or pan for half an hour than to

apply water on the surface. When the plants attain the third leaf they

can be pricked off into shallow boxes or round the edges of 3-1/2 inch

pots. From these they either may have another shift singly into small

pots, or may be transferred direct to blooming quarters. A high

temperature is not requisite at any stage of growth, indeed it is

distinctly injurious. From 55 deg. to 65 deg. is the extreme range, and the

happy medium should, if possible, be maintained. Give air on every

suitable occasion, and as the time for transferring to the open ground

approaches, endeavour to approximate nearly to the outside temperature.

The plants will then scarcely feel the removal.



Another and simpler proceeding produces fairly good results, and we

describe it for the benefit of those whose resources may be small, or

who do not care to adopt the more troublesome method. In some spot

shaded from the sun make a heap of stable manure, rather larger than the

light to be placed upon it. Level the top, and cover with four or five

inches of rich soil. Place a frame upon it with the light a trifle open.

When the thermometer indicates 60 deg., draw drills at six inches apart; sow

the seed, and cover with a little sifted soil. The light had better not

be quite closed, in case of a rise of temperature. As the plants thrive,

gradually give more air, until, in April, the showers may be allowed to

fall directly upon them in the daytime. When the Asters are about three

inches high they will be quite ready for the open ground, and a showery

day is favourable to the transfer. After the bed has served its purpose,

the manure will be in capital condition for enriching the garden.



In the event of there being no frame to spare, drive a stake into each

corner of the bed. Connect the tops of the stakes, about one foot from

the surface of the bed, with four rods securely tied, and upon these

place other rods, over and around which any protecting material at

command may be used. With this simple contrivance it is quite possible

to grow Asters in a satisfactory manner.



The finest Asters are frequently grown in the open air, entirely without

the aid of artificial heat, and indeed without any special horticultural

appliances. Those who possess the best possible resources will find

additional advantage in resorting also to this mode of culture. It gives

another string to the bow, and prolongs the season of flowering. For

open-air sowings in April make the soil level and fine, and about the

middle of that month draw drills three inches deep. In these place an

inch of finely prepared rich soil, and if it is largely mixed with

vegetable ashes, so much the better. The distance between the drills

should be regulated by the variety. For tall-growing Asters twelve to

fifteen inches between the rows will not be too much. Ten inches will

suffice for the dwarfs. Sow the seed thinly and evenly, and cover

carefully with fine soil. Commence early to thin the plants, always

leaving the strongest, and arrange that they finally stand at from eight

to fifteen inches apart according to the sort.



Keep the ground clean, and before the flowering stage is reached gently

stir the surface, but not deep enough to injure the roots. An occasional

application of weak manure water will be advantageous, but it must not

be allowed to touch the foliage.



For tall varieties it may be needful to provide support. If so, place a

neat stick on that side of the plant towards which it leans, as this

takes the strain off the tying material, and saves the plant from being

cut or half-strangled. In a dry season, and especially on light soils,

there must be a bountiful supply of soft water, alternated every few

days with the manure water already alluded to. Evening is the best time

to apply it.



For show purposes rather more room is required than we have stated. Only

about five buds should be matured by each plant, and these, of course,

the finest. To prepare flowers for exhibition is in itself an art, and

each cultivator must be guided by his own resources and experience.



Asters in pots make excellent decorative subjects. It is only necessary

to lift them carefully from the borders with balls of earth surrounding

the roots, and pot them just before the buds expand, or they may be

potted up while in full flower without flagging.



The plants are liable to the attacks of aphis, both green and black.

While under glass the pests can be destroyed by fumigation; but in the

open a solution of some good insecticide may be administered with the

syringe at intervals of about three days, until a clearance is effected.

Other foes are the various grubs which attack plants at the collar. On

the first sign of failing vigour, gently remove with a pointed stick the

soil around the plant, and in doing this avoid any needless disturbance

of the roots. Do not be satisfied until the enemy is destroyed.