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Asparagus In New England

Asparagus was grown in Concord, Mass., in a limited way as early as 1825. Mr. Edmund Hosmer used to carry it to market in season on his milk wagon. Timothy Prescott and F. R. Gourgas grew garden patch...

Asparagus, Its Culture For Home November 11, 2026 7 min read 3,283 views



Asparagus was grown in Concord, Mass., in a limited way as early as

1825. Mr. Edmund Hosmer used to carry it to market in season on his milk

wagon. Timothy Prescott and F. R. Gourgas grew garden patches before

1840. To John B. Moore belongs the credit of growing and improving

asparagus in this section of the State. Mr. Moore selected the most

promising shoots, and by a judicious system of culture succeeded in

placing on the market a valuable variety in the shape of Moore's

Cross-bred. Most of the "giant" asparagus grown in Concord to-day could

be traced to the plants produced by his skill. A sample bunch of twelve

stalks, twelve inches long, from Moore's Cross-bred plants weighed four

pounds eight ounces. In 1872 the first bed of asparagus of any size was

set out by Mr. George D. Hubbard, who was laughed at by his neighbor

farmers, who saw only ruin for the young man. The next year Mr. Hubbard

set out more, so that for twenty years he was probably the largest

grower in Massachusetts.



Most of the leading varieties are grown in Concord, but the farmers are

looking for a rust-proof variety and hope to find one. The Palmetto has

not rusted as badly as other kinds, but has not been grown so

extensively. One-year-old roots should be set by all means, as they

start sooner, grow more vigorously, and in the end pay better. The roots

should be carefully selected from vigorous stock. A very large part of

Concord asparagus is planted on sandy soil--i.e., good, rich, mellow

corn land. This kind of land needs more manure, but then the crop is

more satisfactory and the labor bill is not so high. The land previous

to setting to asparagus should be well tilled and manured.



Land for asparagus beds should be plowed late in the fall, and if stable

manure can be afforded should be applied liberally. In the spring plow

again early and harrow well. The roots should be planted in April as

soon as the ground can be worked. After determining the direction of the

rows a number of laths, four feet long, are placed in line where the

first row is to be. It is very important to get the rows straight and an

even distance apart. A good strong pair of horses and a large plow are

used, a board being so placed above the mold-board of the plow that the

loose soil will not fall back into the furrow. Drive the horses so that

the middle of the evener will just come to the lath, then change the

lath over its own length, if the rows are to be four feet apart, and

that will mark the next row. Change each lath as you come to it, and

when your first furrow is completed your second row will be all marked

out. Return in the first row to make it deeper and also to straighten

any bends. Shovel out the ends for a few feet and you will have a proper

furrow to set asparagus roots in. Proceed with the other rows in the

same manner, and you will have a good-looking plantation.



The larger growers in Concord set the plants two feet apart in the row

and have the rows four feet apart. The plants are set in the bottom of

the furrow, covered two inches, and should level up by fall so that the

crowns will be six or seven inches below the surface. The furrows may be

made very deep, so that manure can be placed in the bottom, or

fertilizer may be strewn before the plants are set or after. The roots

should be spread out carefully in the bottom of the furrow, care being

taken to have them in line. The bed should be cultivated with a

fine-tooth cultivator or weeder often enough to prevent the growth of

weeds. Keep the bed clean and do not have the trenches filled in before

the last of September. The tops should not be cut in the fall of the

first year, as the snow will be held by them, and thereby protect the

roots to some extent. Some growers spread coarse manure on their beds in

the fall to prevent the soil from being blown away and also to prevent

winter killing, which, however, is rare.



In the second year the bed may be plowed or wheel-harrowed in the spring

as early as possible. Concord growers use animal manure or chemical

fertilizers, as the case may be or as the bed may require. The bed

should be smooth harrowed just before the new shoots appear, and good

clean cultivation given during the season. After harrowing or plowing in

the third year, sow your chemicals or fertilizer broadcast and harrow

in. A good formula for asparagus is: Nitrate of soda, 300 to 400 pounds;

muriate of potash, 400 pounds; and fine ground bone, 600 pounds per

acre. The shoots will appear about May 5th, and should be cut for about

two weeks; then let them grow up and cultivate well during the season.



Home-mixing of fertilizer is practiced by some of the growers in this

vicinity, as it is cheaper and better. Any intelligent farmer can, with

a little study, purchase and mix the raw materials to advantage. Not so

much fertilizer is used as formerly by our growers, who are beginning to

think that we use more plant food than the crop needs, thus throwing

away many dollars each year. The cost of an acre of asparagus when

properly planted and manured is about two hundred dollars, varying with

the cost of help, manure, etc. The average product of asparagus beds is

about two hundred and eighty-eight dozen bunches per acre--probably less

since the rust appeared in 1897.



Asparagus is grown largely on Cape Cod. There the roots are planted in

rows six feet apart and four or five feet in the row. Seaweed is used

largely in connection with fertilizer and manure. Various grains, oats,

rye, etc., are sometimes sown to prevent the soil being blown away. The

method of culture is much the same as elsewhere.



At Concord the asparagus season opens usually about May 5th. The shoots

are cut two or three inches under ground and should be about eight

inches in length. These are laid in handfuls on the ground by the

cutter, each one cutting two rows. The product of four rows is laid in

one row, making what is called a "basket row." These "basket rows" are

gathered in baskets, boxes, or wheelbarrows, and taken to the

packing-shed. The asparagus is placed on a table and packed in racks of

uniform size, passed to the person who ties, and then to be butted off.

The bunches are then washed and set up in troughs ready for market.

Water is added in season to swell the bunch tight and it is then packed

in bushel boxes for market, going in by teams each night.



Asparagus was free from pests until 1889, when the asparagus beetle made

its unwelcome appearance. Methods of fighting the beetle were unknown to

growers generally at that time, but necessity soon taught us. Chickens

and hens are used with good results, also Paris green dry was applied

with an air-gun when the dew was on the foliage. Cutworms sometimes do

the asparagus crop severe damage, but chickens and hens are a sure

remedy--in fact, hens are a decided benefit in an asparagus field,

keeping down many weeds.



After learning to control the asparagus beetle we were visited by the

rust, which has proved a stubborn foe and absorbs the sap which ought to

go to the growing plant. Appearing in July, 1897, the rust seriously

damaged many beds in eastern Massachusetts. Many remedies have been

suggested, but so far none of them have proved perfectly satisfactory.

Growers have been advised to cut the infected tops as soon as the rust

appears, but such a practice is all wrong, however good in theory. Do

not cut the tops until the sap has left the stalks. This is the advice

of a large number of asparagus growers and scientific men who are

engaged in experimental work.



CHARLES W. PRESCOTT.



Middlesex County, Mass.





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