APRIL

Vegetation is now in full activity, the temperature increases rapidly,

frosts are less frequent, and showers and sunshine alternate in their

mutual endeavours to clothe the earth with verdure and flowers. The

gardener is bound to be vigilant now to assist Nature in her endeavours

to benefit him; he must promote the growth of his crops by all the means

in his power; by plying the hoe to keep down weeds and open the soil to

sunshine and showers; by thinning and regulating his plantations, that

air and light may have free access to the plants left to attain

maturity; by continuing to shelter as may be needed; and by

administering water during dry weather, that vegetation may benefit to

the utmost by the happy accession of increasing sunlight.



Artichoke, Globe.--Suckers to be put in the plantations prepared for

them last month, in rows three to four feet apart each way.



Asparagus.--- Rake off into the alleys the remnant of manure from the

autumn dressing, and as soon as the weather is favourable give the beds

a light application of salt. If new beds are required, there must be no

time lost either to sow seed or get in plants. Our advice to those who

require only one small plantation is to form it by planting strong

roots; but those who intend to grow Asparagus largely may sow down a bed

every year, until they have enough, and then leave well alone; for a bed

properly made will last ten years at the very least, if taken care of.

It has been clearly demonstrated that this much-esteemed vegetable may

be grown to perfection in any garden with little more expense than

attends other crops, provided only that a reasonable amount of skill is

brought to bear upon the undertaking. A deep, rich, sandy loam suits it.

Dig in a good body of manure, and provide a mellow seed-bed. This being

done, care must be taken to sow thinly, and, in due time, to thin

severely; for a crowded plant will never supply fat sticks. Beds may be

made by planting roots instead of sowing seeds, but the roots must be

fresh, or they will not prosper. The advantage of using plants is that

'grass' may be cut earlier than when produced from seed.



Bean, Broad.--- Sowings may be made until the middle of this month,

after which time they are not likely to pay, especially on hot soils. It

is customary to top Beans when in flower, and the practice has its

advantages. In case the black fly takes possession, topping is a

necessity, for the insect can only subsist on the youngest leaves at the

top of the plant, and the process pretty well clears them away.



Beans, Dwarf French, may be sown outdoors at the end of the month, but

not in quantity, because of the risk of destruction by frost. Much may

be done, however, to expedite the supply of this popular vegetable, and

sowings in boxes placed in gentle heat or under the protection of a

frame will furnish plants which may be gradually hardened off for

transfer to the open in May. In proportion to the means at command,

early sowings outdoors will live or die, as determined by the weather,

although a very little protection is sufficient to carry the young

plants through a bad time in the event of late frosts and storms. But

sowings made at the end of the month will probably prosper.



Bean, Climbing French.--Sowings of the Climbing French Bean may be

made this month as directed for the Dwarf French class: the earliest in

gentle heat for transplanting, and later on in open quarters for

succession crops.



Beet.--At quite the end of the month sow in drills, a foot or fifteen

inches apart, on deep, well-dug ground, without manure. Large Beets are

not desired for the kitchen; but rather small, deeply coloured, handsome

roots are always valued, and these can only be grown in soil that has

been stirred to a good depth, and is quite free of recent manuring.



Broccoli.--Make another sowing of several sorts, giving preference as

yet to the early varieties. In particularly late districts, and,

perhaps, pretty generally in the North, the late Broccoli should be sown

now, but in the Midlands and the South there is time to spare for

sowing. Be particular to have a good seed-bed, that the plants may grow

well from the first; if the early growth be starved, the plants become

the victims of club and other ruinous maladies.



Brussels Sprouts.--In many households late supplies of Brussels

Sprouts are much valued, and as the crop is capable of enduring severe

weather, a supplemental sowing should always be made during this month.

Rich soil and plenty of room are essential.



Cabbage.--Sow the larger kinds for autumn use, and one or two rows of

the smaller kinds for planting in odd places as early crops are cleared

off. Cows, pigs, and poultry will always dispose of surplus Cabbage

advantageously, so there can be no serious objection to keeping up a

constant succession. Plant out from seed-beds as fast as the plants

become strong enough, for stifling and starving tend to club, mildew,

and blindness. Where Red Cabbage is in demand for use with game in

autumn, seed should be sown now.



Cardoons to be sown on land heavily manured in rows three or four feet

apart, the seeds in clumps of three each, eighteen inches apart. They

are sometimes sown in trenches, but we do not approve of that system,

for they do not require moisture to the extent of Celery, and the

blanching can be effectually accomplished without it. Our advice is to

plant on the level, unless the ground is particularly dry and hot, and

then trenches will be of great service in promoting free growth. To

insure their proper flavour, Cardoons must be large and fat.



Carrot.--Sow the main crops and put them on deeply dug ground without

manure.



Cauliflowers to be planted out at every opportunity, warm, showery

weather being most favourable. If cold weather should follow, a large

proportion of the plants will be destroyed unless protected, and there

is no cheaper protection than empty flowerpots, which may be left on all

day, as well as all night, in extreme cases when a killing east wind is

blowing. Sow now for late summer and autumn use, prick the plants out

early to save buttoning, and they will make a quick return.



Celery.--Sow in a warm corner of the open ground on a bed consisting

largely of rotten manure. It may happen in a good season that this

outdoor sowing will prove the most successful, as it will have no check

from first to last, and will be in just the right state for planting out

when the ground is ready for it after Peas and other early crops. If

Celery suffers a serious check at any time, it is apt to make hollow

stems, and then the quality is poor, no matter to what size the sticks

may attain. Prick out the plants from seed-pans on to a bed of rotten

manure, resting on a hard bottom, in frames or in sheltered nooks, and

look after them with extra care for a week or two. Good Celery cannot be

grown by the haphazard gardener.



Endive.--Sow a small quantity in moderate heat for the first supply,

in drills six inches apart, and when an inch high prick out on to a bed

of rich light soil.



Herbs.--Chervil, Fennel, Hyssop, and other flavouring and medicinal

Herbs, may be sown now better than at any other time, as they will start

at once into full growth, and need little after-care other than thinning

and weeding. Rich soil is not required, but the position must be dry and

sunny.



Leek to be sown again if the former sowing is insufficient or has

failed.



Lettuce to be sown for succession, the quick-growing, tender-hearted

kinds being the best to sow now. Plant out from frames and seed-pans. A

few forward plants may be tied, but as a rule tying is less desirable

than most people suppose. Certainly, after tying, the hearts soon rot if

not quickly eaten; and Lettuces as fine as can be desired may now be

grown without tying, the close-hearting sorts being very much improved

in that respect.



Melon.--Sow again for a second crop in houses, and grow the plants in

pots until they reach a foot high. The early crop will then be ripe, and

the house can be cleared and syringed for a fresh start. From this

sowing fruit should be ready about the beginning of July. The frame

culture advised for Cucumbers will be right for Melons, until the fruits

attain the size of a small orange. Then a thorough soaking must be

given, and under proper management no more water should be necessary. A

dry atmosphere and free ventilation are essential to bring the fruit to

perfection. Stopping must be commenced early by pinching out the leader,

and only one eye should be allowed beyond the fruit which are to remain.

Six will be enough for one plant to carry, and they should be nearly of

a size, for if one obtains a strong lead, it will be impossible to ripen

the others. The remainder should be gradually removed while young. The

worst foe of the Melon is red spider, and it is difficult to apply a

remedy without doing mischief. Water will destroy it, but this may have

disastrous results on the fruit. The most certain preventive is stout

well-grown plants. Weakly specimens appear to invite attack, and are

incapable of struggling against it. Where plants are occasionally lost

through decay at the collar, small pieces of charcoal laid in a circle

round the stem have proved a simple and effectual antidote.



Onion.--The plants raised under glass in January or February should be

ready for planting out on some favourable day about mid-April. If any

mishap has befallen the sowings made in the open in March there must be

no delay in resowing early in the present month, for Onions should have

good hold of the ground before hot weather comes. Onions for pickling

should be grown thickly on poor ground made firm. The plants are not to

be thinned, but may be allowed to stand as thick as pebbles on the

seashore. The starving system produces abundance of small handsome bulbs

that ripen early, which are the very things wanted for pickling. The

Queen and Paris Silver-skin are adapted for the purpose.



Parsley to be sown in quantity for summer and autumn supply; thin as

soon as up, to give each plant plenty of room.



Peas to be sown again for succession.



Potato.--Take the earliest opportunity of completing the planting of

main crops.



Salsify.--This delicious root, which is sometimes designated the

'Vegetable Oyster,' requires a piece of ground deeply trenched, with a

thick layer of manure at the bottom of the trench, and not a particle of

manure in the body of soil above it. The roots strike down into the

manure, and attain a good size combined with fine quality. If carelessly

grown, they become forked and fibrous, and are much wasted in the

cooking, besides being of inferior flavour. Sow in rows fifteen inches

apart, any time from the end of March to the beginning of May. Two

sowings will generally suffice.



Spinach.--Sow the Long-standing variety, which does not run so soon as

the ordinary kind. If a plantation of Spinach Beet has not been secured,

sow at once, as there is ample time yet for a free growth and a valuable

plant.



Turnip to be sown in quantity.



Vegetable Marrow.--An early sowing to be made in pots, in readiness

for planting out immediately weather admits of it. Three plants in a pot

are enough, and they must not be weakened by excessive heat.



Winter Greens.--A sowing of Borecole should be made, and if a supply

is required in spring, it will be well to sow again in the first week of

May.