Raspberries

A rich, moist, loamy soil is most suitable for theircultivation. Suckers are drawn by the hand from the old roots any time between October and February, and set in groups of three in rows 6 ft. apart. If taken in October, the



young plants may be pruned early in November. It is usual to cut one cane to the length of 3 ft., the second one to 2 ft., and the third to within a few inches of the ground. As soon as the year's crop is gathered, the old bearing shoots are cut clean away, the young canes are drawn closer together, and at the end of August the tops of the tall ones are pinched off. When the leaves have fallen all the suckers are drawn out and the canes pruned (about four being left to each root). The canes are then tied and manure applied. About May they are, if necessary, thinned out again, and the suckers that are exhausting both soil and plant removed. They produce their fruit on one-year-old canes, which wood is of no further use. The general way of training them is by tying the tops together, or by training them in the shape of a fan on a south wall, but perhaps the best way is to tic them about equal distances apart round hoops supported by light sticks. Seed may be separated from the fruit, dried, and sown early in February on a gentle hotbed. Prick off into good rich mould, harden off by the middle of May, and plant in rich soil. Train them and keep down suckers. When they are grown tall pinch off the tops. Red Antwerp, Yellow Antwerp, Prince of Wales, Northumberland Filbasket, Carter's Prolific, and White Magnum Bonum are all good sorts.

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