In the propagation of plants from cuttings or otherwise, the amateur,
with limited facilities, of course cannot compete with the trained and
experienced propagator, who makes the rearing of plants his business,
devoting his whole attention to that special branch. Many men have
devoted
the greater part of a lifetime to experiment and study, as to
the best and most practicable methods for the successful propagation of
plants. There are, however, common and ordinary methods for propagating
plants from cuttings, that the most inexperienced can practice with a
measure of success. All florists root their cuttings in sand, and that
obtained from the beach of some fresh water lake is the best for the
purpose, being free from gravel and clay, and will not hold water long.
If lake sand cannot be easily obtained, common building sand will answer
by thoroughly washing it with several waters to free it from clay, etc.
I can recommend to the reader no more simple and practical method of
propagating plants on a small scale, than the following, from the pen of
an experienced florist, which expresses my own views exactly:
"Take a pan, or dish, at least three inches deep--the circumference
of which may be as large as you wish, fill to within one half inch
of the top with sand. The cuttings are to be inserted in the sand,
which is made very wet, of the consistency of mud. The pan should
then be placed on the window case, where it will receive the full
light of the sun, which will not injure the cuttings in the least,
providing the sand is kept constantly wet, being careful to never
allow it to become dry for a moment, otherwise the plants will be
lost.
"'Is there no drainage from the pan necessary?' none, the
atmosphere will evaporate the water fast enough to prevent any
stagnation during the brief time required for the cuttings to take
root."
Success in propagating in this way, depends altogether upon keeping the
sand wet like mud until the cuttings in it are "struck" or rooted, and
this may be easily determined--with the hand gently try to lift the
cutting, you will know if it is rooted by the hold maintained on the
sand, if not, it will come out. A little experience in feeling with the
hand in this way, will enable you to readily determine whether the
cutting is rooted or not.
I have no doubt that the following table, which I have carefully
prepared from my own extensive experience in regard to length of time
required by different plants to take root from cuttings, will be of
interest to all who desire to propagate plants in this manner. I am
supposing now, in the following table, that all the conditions and
facilities are such as are generally found in a first-class propagating
house, with bottom heat, etc.:
Days.
Ageratums 6 to 8
Amaranthus 6 " 8
Alyssum 10 " 12
Abutilon 12 " 15
Azalea 60 " 90
Begonias 12 " 15
Bouvardias 20 " 30
Clematis 30 " 40
Carnations 20 " 30
Cuphea (cigar plant) 6 " 8
Chrysanthemums 12 " 15
Centaurea 30 " 40
Coleus (all kinds) 6 " 8
Dahlias 15 " 20
Eupatoriums 15 " 20
Echeverias 30 " 40
Geraniums 12 " 15
Hibiscus 20 " 30
Heliotrope 12 " 15
Lobelia 12 " 15
Lantanas 12 " 15
Lavender 20 " 30
Mignonette 15 " 20
Myosotis 12 " 20
Nasturtium 10 " 12
Primroses 30 " 40
Pyrethrums 15 " 20
Poinsettia 30 " 40
Petunias 20 " 30
Roses 30 " 40
Oleander 30 " 40
Verbenas 6 " 8
Vinca 12 " 15
All hardy shrubs, taken when the wood is green and young, may be
propagated in like manner. The summer is the time to take off the wood
for such cuttings.
Previous: Layering
Next: Grafting
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